their old superstitions. They still
believe that they can hold communications with the spirits of their
ancestors, and that they can obtain from them a clue to the treasures
concealed in the _huacas_, or graves; hence the Indian name of the
thorn-apple--_huacacachu_, or grave plant.

A few miles beyond Matucanas there is a lateral valley, larger and more
pleasant than the principal valley. It is called the Quebrada de Viso,
and is watered by a little stream. At the point where this Quebrada
forms a junction with the principal valley is situated the Tambo de
Viso. It is 9100 feet above the level of the sea.[61] At this tambo the
traveller may find a tolerable night's lodging for himself, and fodder
for his horse. Here the river is crossed by a bridge, and the road then
proceeds along the left bank of the river, after having been on the
right bank all the way from Lima. The bridges across these mountain
streams are always constructed at points where the river is most
contracted by the narrow confines of the ravine. They consist merely of
a few poles made of the trunk of the Maguay-tree (_Agave Americana_),
and connected together by transverse ropes; the ropes being overlaid
with twisted branches and pieces of hoops. These bridges are not more
than three feet broad, and have no balustrades. When the space between
the banks of the river is too long for the Maguay stems, strong ropes
made of twisted ox-hides are substituted. In crossing these bridges
accidents frequently happen, owing to the hoofs of the horses and mules
getting entangled in the plaited branches along the pathway. A little
way beyond San Mateo I narrowly escaped being precipitated, with my
mule, into the rocky chasm forming the bed of the river.

The road between Viso and San Mateo, a distance of about three
leagues, is exceedingly difficult and dangerous. The ravine becomes
narrowed to a mere cleft, between walls of mountain rising on either
side to the height of more than a thousand feet; sometimes
perpendicularly, and at other times inclining inwards, so as to form
gigantic arches. The path runs along the base of these mountains,
washed by the foaming waves of the stream; or it winds up the side of
the precipice, over huge fragments of rock, which, being loosened by
the rain, afford no secure footing for the heavily laden mules.
Frequently these loosened blocks give way, and roll down into the
valley. The journey from Viso to San Mateo is associated in m