wall of the
structure. Now there is merely an iron cross, fixed on the upper part
of the block of mountain. On this spot the Archbishop used formerly to
celebrate mass, when he was on his rounds through the diocese. The
chapel was destroyed by lightning, and has not been rebuilt. The pass
of the Piedra Parada is 16,008 feet above the sea, and is always
covered with snow. Travellers frequently lose their way in this pass,
an accident which befel me in March, 1842, when I was proceeding alone
by that route. Being overtaken by a violent fall of snow, I could
scarcely see a few paces before me. After wandering about for several
hours, my horse became weary, and I began to despair of extricating
myself from the dreary plains of snow. Late in the evening I reached a
little valley, where, sheltered by some rocks, I passed the night. On
the following morning I renewed my journey, and after considerable
exertion I arrived at an Indian hut, where I obtained such directions
as enabled me to recover the right course.

The eastern declivity of the Pass of Piedra Parada is steeper than that
of Huascacocha. After a difficult ride of about two leagues, we reach
first the valley, and then the village of Yauli. The village lies at the
height of 13,100 feet above the sea, and consists of about one hundred
and fifty miserable huts, affording habitations for between twelve and
fourteen thousand Indians, most of whom are employed in mining.

The Cordillera, in the neighborhood of Yauli, is exceedingly rich in
lead ore, containing silver. Within the circuit of a few miles, above
eight hundred shafts have been made, but they have not been found
sufficiently productive to encourage extensive mining works. The
difficulties which impede mine-working in these parts are caused
chiefly by the dearness of labor and the scarcity of fuel. There being
a total want of wood, the only fuel that can be obtained consists of
the dried dung of sheep, llamas, and huanacus. This fuel is called
_taquia_. It produces a very brisk and intense flame, and most of the
mine-owners prefer it to coal. The process of smelting, as practised
by the Indians, though extremely rude and imperfect, is nevertheless
adapted to local circumstances. All European attempts to improve the
system of smelting in these districts have either totally failed, or
in their results have proved less effective than the simple Indian
method. Complicated furnaces made after European models are
ex