ived on the 6th February.
"I am informed," observes Sir Moses, "that there are 3500 Jews here,
two-thirds poor. Four times a year, 200 are obliged to attend a sermon
preached in church for their conversion. Leo XII. had deprived them of
their privilege of keeping shops and warehouses out of the Ghetto. But
the present most excellent Pontiff, Gregory XVI., has permitted them
to have warehouses in the city. He frequently sends them money from
his own purse, and is always willing to give an audience to their
deputies and to attend to their requests.
"Yesterday we were shown some very rich and splendid silk Damask,
embroidered in silver and gold, for hangings for the Synagogue, Holy
Ark, and pulpit. There are many silver bells, crowns, and chains,
enriched with precious stones, for the scrolls of the Holy Law, and in
the Synagogue there are beautiful marbles, mosaics, and columns."
Sir Moses and Lady Montefiore did not prolong their stay in Rome. On
the 13th February they quitted the city for Naples, remaining there
till March 22nd, when they again returned to Rome, apartments having
been previously taken for them at 54 Via della Fontanella di Borghese.
It was now nearly four years since I had first the pleasure of meeting
Sir Moses and Lady Montefiore in London. I had since that time been
travelling in Egypt, Nubia, Ethiopia, Syria, and the Holy Land, and
had during these travels the gratification to receive some letters
from Sir Moses. It was therefore a very pleasant surprise for me to
meet them in Rome and to visit with them the museums, picture
galleries, and most places of importance. They spoke to me of their
intended pilgrimage to Jerusalem, and invited me to accompany them.
Having had many opportunities when in Eyn Zetoon, Upper Galilee,
during the revolt of the Druses, to become fully acquainted with the
character and peculiarities of the various classes of inhabitants of
the land, I felt a great interest in all measures that could be
devised for the improvement of their condition; and, anticipating good
results from Sir Moses' visit to the Holy Land, I gladly accepted the
invitation.
On the 28th March they received a letter from the Baroness James de
Rothschild, in which she informed them that intelligence had been
received from the Austrian Consul of great military preparations being
made in Alexandria, and that war would not long be delayed between the
Pasha of Egypt and the Sultan. Sir Moses and Lady
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