and
that great numbers died last year of hunger. Nearly all are stamped
with want and wretchedness, though many of them are tall men and have
handsome features. The women are very pretty; they have large black
eyes, are of refined manners, and exhibit much intelligence in their
conversation. I have found all the men anxious to be employed in
agriculture."

_Monday, May 27th._--We repaired early in the morning to the house of
the spiritual head of the German congregation, where we attended
divine service. His wife, who had prepared quite a treat for us,
consisting of coffee, sweetmeats, wine and cakes, gave us a most
hearty welcome. In the presence of the reverend gentleman Sir Moses
engaged one of the scribes to write a scroll of the Pentateuch for his
Synagogue at Ramsgate. The first sheet of the parchment was at once
prepared, and he had the happiness of writing the first three words.
Sir Moses on his return affixed his signature to an Arabic letter,
which he had requested me to prepare at the urgent entreaties of all
the inhabitants, praying the Governor of St Jean d'Acre to send them
some soldiers for their protection.

On the same day at half-past twelve we set out on our way to Tiberias.
In spite of Sir Moses' entreaties for them to return, we were
accompanied for about half-an-hour by the principal authorities and
most of the people of the town, who, in taking leave, called down upon
Sir Moses and Lady Montefiore all the blessings of heaven.

We passed through a beautiful country, a very long descent, winding
round hills covered with olives, figs, and pomegranates. In the plain
we saw the richest land imaginable, though but a very small part of it
was under cultivation, large fields being covered with thistles five
and six feet high. The path was rocky and difficult. After riding
three hours we reached the plain, and dismounting near a stream of
water reposed for an hour. Our road then lay near the foot of the
mountains; it was one continual ascent and descent. When we were about
two hours' ride from Tiberias, while saying the afternoon prayers, we
heard the sound of the darabuca (Turkish drum), with shouts of joy,
and soon beheld a large party coming to meet us, dancing and singing.
They joined us in prayer, and when we had finished, the head of the
German congregation bade us welcome in glowing terms. We then
proceeded on our way, the people dancing and running before us,
playing on the drum and fife, and s