various ailments. At six we encamped near the famous fountain
known by the name of "Ras el-'ain," where the ruins of its great
aqueduct leading to "El Ma'-shuk" (an isolated hill in the plain) and
the ancient Tyre were still to be seen. This fountain and those
previously named were considered by several writers of the middle ages
to be identical with those alluded to by King Solomon in the Song of
Songs (iv. 15): "A fountain of gardens, a well of living waters, and
streams from Lebanon."

_July 3rd._--We rose about one o'clock, set off at three, and reached
"Nahr el Kasimiyah" at five. When we had crossed the river of that
name, we saw a wolf under some rocks, about thirty yards distant. One
of our guards fired immediately, but only succeeded in frightening it,
and it ran away. The shock of the musket threw the man off his horse!
"So much for guards!" exclaimed Sir Moses. "This was one of the three
men we took from Acre, on account of the dangerous condition which the
roads were reported to be in." Afterwards we saw four beautiful young
deer bounding along the sea shore, and the British Consular Agent
hurried on in the hope of getting a shot at them; but he was
disappointed, much to the satisfaction of the soldier who had been so
unsuccessful in attempting to kill the wolf. He slyly observed that he
was pleased to find some one equally clever in the party;
nevertheless, he continued, "our will was good, even if we failed in
the deed." We rested at "El Kantare." During the day we came across
quantities of wheat that was being cut and carried, and observed many
men in the fields, but they were all Druses. They were the only
able-bodied men we had seen engaged in agriculture during the whole of
our tour. The crops were everywhere most abundant, and of excellent
quality. Indian corn and tobacco covered much land, and had likewise a
most promising appearance.

Sir Moses now sent a messenger to Mr Kilbee, of Beyrout, requesting
him to engage a house for us. We started at four, and reached Bassatin
towards the evening, where we encamped for the night. On the road we
met three men, who were recognised as belonging to the sect of the
Metouali by the peculiar turbans which they wore. Our guides begged
them to let us have a little water to drink, but this they refused to
do. As it is a most unusual thing in the East not to allow a traveller
to quench his thirst, they were ultimately compelled to hand us their
jars of water, tho