inging in Hebrew in a general
chorus. The spiritual heads of both German and Portuguese communities
and the principal representatives of all scholastic and charitable
institutions of the town now joined our cavalcade. They were all
singing in Arabic and Hebrew, to express their delight at our visit to
their city. We had gone but a short distance when we were met by the
Mooselim or Governor, well mounted and armed, and attended by about a
dozen officers and servants. He told Sir Moses he came to offer him
his services and to do him honour, and that in this Holy Land he
respected persons of all religions. He directed his soldiers to
skirmish up and down the sides of the mountain, charging and
retreating for our amusement. The Cadi (Judge) and his son also joined
our party, paying Sir Moses and Lady Montefiore many compliments.

"The evening," says Lady Montefiore, "was beautiful, and the gaiety of
the scene beyond my feeble powers of description; the music, singing,
and dancing of the people, the firing of guns, the horsemen at full
gallop up and down the steep sides of the mountain, discharging their
pistols, throwing the jareed, stopping their horses when at full
speed, and then riding round our party; and now, as we approached the
town, the moon shone brightly on the lake; it was a complete fairy
scene. At a short distance from the town we were met by a great
concourse of people, men, women, and children, many bearing large
torches. They formed, as it were, a lane on either side for us to pass
through, the same merriment, music, singing, and dancing continuing.
We found the whole town illuminated, it was as light as in the day; we
were saluted on all sides with expressions of joy and heartfelt
wishes. Not only were the streets crowded, but even the roofs of
houses were covered with gaily-attired females. All cheered us as we
passed, joining in the chorus, 'They are come, they are come, our
happiness is come.' Never will the scene be effaced from our memory."

We proceeded to the house of Rev. H. N. Abu-el-afia, which he had
prepared for our reception. Here the Governor and good people took
their leave, thinking we must need repose after so much fatigue. All
appeared greatly pleased, Mussulmans as well as Jews. The house looked
very clean and comfortable, with good sized rooms neatly furnished in
the Turkish style. Mrs Abu-el-afia, a pretty and clever woman, made us
partake of some coffee and sherbet, which was soon fo