the way with a complete sham fight with lance,
sabre, musket, and pistol, advancing and retreating at full gallop.
They were all capital horsemen, and it was a most pleasing and lively
sight. We read our prayers at the tombs, which are situated near the
village of Halhool. Our road lay between the mountains, a continuous
desert, until we reached the plain. Sir Moses there discharged our
escort, made presents to the Agha and every one of his soldiers, and
sent a letter of thanks to the Governor of Jerusalem, accompanied by a
valuable telescope. We encamped for the night near the village of
Zaccariah, and started again the next morning at six.

_Thursday, 20th._--We proceeded _via_ Nayani to Beth Dagon, near
Ashdod, and reached Jaffa the next day. We encamped on the sands close
to the sea. The British and Russian Consuls soon after called,
bringing with them the sad intelligence that the plague was in the
town and neighbourhood.

The superintendent of the Quarantine then came to see Sir Moses, and
gave him a certificate which, we thought, would enable us to proceed
to Beyrout without performing quarantine. The Cadi and the Governor of
the town also called to pay their respects. The latter, being the
brother of the Governor of Jerusalem, was particularly attentive, and
sent presents of sheep and various kinds of fruit.

We left Jaffa on Sunday, reached the village of Emkhalet in the
evening, and encamped in a large and beautiful plain near Mount
Carmel. The next day we started at two o'clock in the morning, and at
seven arrived at Caesarea, where once stood the proud city of Herod. It
must have been a place of great magnificence, to judge from the
splendid remains of the granite columns; there is also every
appearance of its having had a fine harbour, most beautifully
situated. It is now, with the exception of some portions of the wall
which formerly surrounded the city, little more than an immense pile
of ruins. We had a very pleasant ride nearly the whole way, on the
sands close to the sea.

We left Emkhalet early in the morning. It was very dark, and we ran
great risk of serious accident, having to pass many deep holes, like
wells, in which the corn is laid up for the year. These were at that
time being filled in, so that they were left uncovered.

We breakfasted and rested till twelve, when we again set forward and
encamped in the evening at Tantura, the ancient city of Dor, of which
we read in the first Book of