n to order our tents to be
brought back. In about an hour great screams were heard; we sent to
see what was the matter, when it was ascertained that the cries
proceeded from our messenger who had gone for the tent. He said he had
been attacked, severely beaten, and his donkey almost killed. This
intelligence alarmed Dr Loewe very much for the safety of our lives,
to say nothing of our luggage. He remained walking round our mats
during the night, with his loaded pistols, Judith and I having ours
under our heads. About midnight we with difficulty persuaded two men
to ride after our luggage to see what had become of it; they returned
at three in the morning with the news of its being all safe. Our road
after passing Sidon was like going through a beautiful garden. At a
short distance on our right we had a view of the sea, on our left
mountains; they were pretty well cultivated--wheat, barley, figs and
mulberries; but few can imagine the anxiety we suffered during the
night, when we were exposed to the winds of heaven."

_Thursday, May 16th._--We started at 6 A.M., and rode till nine, after
which we reposed for some time. We met three persons sent from Safed
with letters from the Spiritual Head of the community to welcome us;
he was at Tiberias, and prevented by indisposition from coming to meet
us. We rested in a beautiful valley, noticing much cattle, small cows,
calves, and a number of goats. We then crossed the Nahr el Kasmiyah, a
river which divides the lot of Asher from that of Dan.

There was a heavy dew in the night. Sir Moses was much fatigued, and
still felt the bad effects of having slept exposed to the night air on
the previous day. The next morning was cloudy; we started at five
o'clock, riding over mountains and through fertile valleys till ten.
While resting, we received a letter by a private messenger from the
three representatives of the Hebrew Congregation at Safed, where each
had prepared his own house for our use, and was waiting to receive us.
About two hours later we caught the first glimpse of Safed. The town
looked very beautiful, being situate on the summit of the mountain,
which was crowned with beautiful olive trees of immense growth and
great age.

CHAPTER XX.

1839.

RECEPTION AT SAFED--SAD CONDITION OF THE PEOPLE--SIR MOSES' PROJECT
FOR THE CULTIVATION OF THE LAND IN PALESTINE BY THE JEWS--DEATH OF THE
CHIEF RABBI OF THE GERMAN CONGREGATION IN JERUSALEM--TIBERIAS.

After four ho