iately wrote to the Governor to request that he would provide him
with messengers to carry the money to Safed, Tiberias, and Jerusalem.
The Governor wrote a very civil answer, but regretted he could not
comply with this request. He then addressed himself to the British
Consul, but no answer reached him that day.
The next morning the Consul's dragoman came with a message that he had
been with the Governor, who was extremely sorry not to be able to
provide us with an escort, but the roads were not so unsafe as
reported, and he hoped a large party, well armed like ours, would
travel with safety. Sir Moses was much troubled in making the
arrangements, to divide the money into smaller parcels, putting these
into bags and baskets, altogether eleven. This we were obliged to do
ourselves. Mr Kilbee passed some time with us, giving us much
encouragement, though he was unable to find any person who would risk
taking the money, either to Safed, Tiberias, Jerusalem, or Hebron, in
spite of the most tempting offers. Sir Moses imploring the protection
of the Almighty, we set forward on our pilgrimage at 4 P.M.
The way was over sand and through stony lanes, which opened on a sandy
plain; we rested at Beer Hassan, till our luggage came up. There were
fourteen mules and three horses, besides several donkeys for the
moukeries. Having taken some coffee we proceeded on our way. The
scenery was beautiful, especially the mountains of Lebanon, many of
the highest being covered with snow. At eight we reached Khan Khaldah,
the "Mutatio Heldua," according to Pococke, in the Jerusalem
Itinerary.
"Thanks to Heaven," says Sir Moses, "we rested well in our tent, and
set forward on our journey the next day, May 15th, at five. We rode on
till one, then reposed till three o'clock under a mulberry tree; they
were cutting off the young boughs and gathering the leaves. The road
ran on the sands and rocks close to the sea. At three we sent off our
tents and baggage to Nahr el Kasmiyah, said to be three hours'
distance, and we followed. Before reaching Sidon, we were met by many
Jews, the representatives of congregations; they said they had been
waiting three hours for us. They accompanied us to the tomb of
Zebulon, where we recited prayers. We then took leave of our brethren
and continued riding till seven o'clock, when I was so fatigued I
could go no further. A mat was spread in a garden near the water, and
I gladly threw myself upon it. We sent a ma
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