auce, of which only a spoonful may be relish enough for a
plate of insipid viands. (See _obs._ to No. 355.) However, we fancy
these large quantities of wine, &c. are oftener ordered in cookery books
than used in the kitchen: practical cooks have the health of their
employers too much at heart, and love "_sauce a la langue_" too well to
overwine their soup, &c.

Truffles and morels[95-*] are also set down as a part of most receipts.
These, in their green state, have a very rich high flavour, and are
delicious additions to some dishes, or sent up as a stew by themselves
when they are fresh and fine; but in this state they are not served up
half a dozen times in a year at the first tables in the kingdom: when
dried they become mere "_chips in pottage_," and serve only to soak up
good gravy, from which they take more taste than they give.

The art of composing a rich soup is so to proportion the several
ingredients one to another, that no particular taste be stronger than
the rest, but to produce such a fine harmonious relish that the whole is
delightful. This requires that judicious combination of the materials
which constitutes the "_chef d'oeuvre_" of culinary science.

In the first place, take care that the roots and herbs be perfectly well
cleaned; proportion the water to the quantity of meat and other
ingredients, generally a pound of meat to a quart of water for soups,
and double that quantity for gravies. If they stew gently, little more
water need be put in at first than is expected at the end; for when the
pot is covered quite close, and the fire gentle, very little is wasted.

Gentle stewing is incomparably the best; the meat is more tender, and
the soup better flavoured.

It is of the first importance that the cover of a soup-kettle should fit
very close, or the broth will evaporate before you are aware of it. The
most essential parts are soon evaporated by quick boiling, without any
benefit, except to fatten the fortunate cook who inhales them. An
evident proof that these exhalations[96-*] possess the most restorative
qualities is, that THE COOK, who is in general the least eater, is, as
generally, the _fattest_ person in the family, from continually being
surrounded by the quintessence of all the food she dresses; whereof she
sends to HER MASTER only the fibres and calcinations, who is
consequently _thin_, _gouty_, and the victim of diseases arising from
insufficient nourishment.

It is not only the _fib