both at the neck and rump), to keep in the stuffing.

Some cooks put the liver of the fowl into this forcemeat, and others
mince it and pound it, and rub it up with flour and melted butter (No.
287).

When the bird is stuffed and trussed, score the gizzard nicely, dip it
into melted butter, let it drain, and then season it with Cayenne and
salt; put it under one pinion, and the liver under the other; to prevent
their getting hardened or scorched, cover them with double paper
buttered.

Take care that your roasted poultry be well browned; it is as
indispensable that roasted poultry should have a rich brown complexion,
as boiled poultry should have a delicate white one.

_Obs._ "The art of fattening poultry for the market is a considerable
branch of rural economy in some convenient situations, and consists in
supplying them with plenty of healthy food, and confining them; and
ducks and geese must be prevented from going into water, which prevents
them from becoming fat, and they also thereby acquire a rancid, fishy
taste. They are put into a dark place, and crammed with a paste made of
barley meal, mutton-suet, and some treacle or coarse sugar mixed with
milk, and are found to be completely ripe in a fortnight. If kept
longer, the fever that is induced by this continued state of repletion
renders them red and unsaleable, and frequently kills them." But
exercise is as indispensable to the health of poultry as other
creatures; without it, the fat will be all accumulated in the cellular
membrane, instead of being dispersed through its system. See MOUBRAY
_on breeding and fattening domestic Poultry_, 12mo. 1819.

Fowls which are fattened artificially are by some epicures preferred to
those called barn-door fowls; whom we have heard say, that they should
as soon think of ordering a barn-door for dinner as a barn-door fowl.

The age of poultry makes all the difference: nothing is tenderer than a
young chicken; few things are tougher than an old cock or hen, which is
only fit to make broth. The meridian of perfection of poultry is just
before they have come to their full growth, before they have begun to
harden.

For sauces, see No. 305, or liver and parsley, No. 287, and those
ordered in the last receipt. To hash it, No. 533.

_Goose._--(No. 59.)

When a goose is well picked, singed, and cleaned, make the stuffing with
about two ounces of onion,[137-*] and half as much green sage, chop them
very fine, adding four o