to goosify a shoulder of
lamb." "Un grand Cuisinier," informed me that "_to lambify_" the leg of
a porkling is a favourite metamorphosis in the French kitchen, when
house lamb is very dear.

[133-*] MONS. GRIMOD designates this "_Animal modeste, ennemi du faste,
et le roi des animaux immondes_." Maitland, in p. 758, of vol. ii. of
his _History of London_, reckons that the number of _sucking-pigs_
consumed in the city of London in the year 1725, amounted to 52,000.

[133-+] Some _delicately sensitive_ palates desire the cook to _parboil_
the sage and onions (before they are cut), to soften and take off the
rawness of their flavour; the older and drier the onion, the stronger
will be its flavour; and the learned EVELYN orders these to be
_edulcorated_ by gentle maceration.

[133-++] An ancient culinary sage says, "When you see a pig's eyes drop
out, you may be satisfied he has had enough of the fire!" This is no
criterion that the body of the pig is done enough, but arises merely
from the briskness of the fire before the head of it.

[137-*] If you think the flavour of raw onions too strong, cut them in
slices, and lay them in cold water for a couple of hours, or add as much
apple or potato as you have of onion.

[137-+] Although the whole is rather too luscious for the lingual nerves
of the good folks of Great Britain, the livers of poultry are considered
a very high relish by our continental neighbours; and the following
directions how to procure them in perfection, we copy from the recipe of
"_un Vieil Amateur de Bonne Chere_."

"The liver of a duck, or a goose, which has submitted to the rules and
orders that men of taste have invented for the amusement of his
sebaceous glands, is a superlative exquisite to the palate of a Parisian
epicure; but, alas! the poor goose, to produce this darling dainty, must
endure sad torments. He must be crammed with meat, deprived of drink,
and kept constantly before a hot fire: a miserable martyrdom indeed! and
would be truly intolerable if his reflections on the consequences of his
sufferings did not afford him some consolation; but the glorious
prospect of the delightful growth of his liver gives him courage and
support; and when he thinks how speedily it will become almost as big as
his body, how high it will rank on the list of double relishes, and with
what ecstasies it will be eaten by the fanciers "_des Foies gras_," he
submits to his destiny without a sigh. The famous _St