is one of the best ways of dressing very large soles. See also
No. 164.

_Skate_,[172-*]--(No. 148.)

Is very good when in good season, but no fish so bad when it is
otherwise: those persons that like it firm and dry, should have it
crimped; but those that like it tender, should have it plain, and eat it
not earlier than the second day, and if cold weather, three or four days
old it is better: it cannot be kept too long, if perfectly sweet. Young
skate eats very fine crimped and fried. See No. 154.

_Cod boiled._--(No. 149.)

Wash and clean the fish, and rub a little salt in the inside of it (if
the weather is very cold, a large cod is the better for being kept a
day): put plenty of water in your fish-kettle, so that the fish may be
well covered; put in a large handful of salt; and when it is dissolved,
put in your fish; a very small fish will require from fifteen to twenty
minutes after the water boils, a large one about half an hour; drain it
on the fish-plate; dish it with a garnish of the roe, liver,
chitterlings, &c. or large native oysters, fried a light brown (see No.
183*), or smelts (No. 173), whitings (No. 153), the tail[172-+] of the
cod cut in slices, or bits the size and shape of oysters, or split it,
and fry it. Scolloped oysters (No. 182), oyster sauce (No. 278), slices
of cod cut about half an inch thick, and fried as soles (No. 145), are
very nice.

MEM.--The SOUNDS (the jelly parts about the jowl), the palate, and the
tongue are esteemed exquisites by piscivorous epicures, whose longing
eyes will keep a sharp look-out for a share of their favourite "_bonne
bouche_:" the carver's reputation depends much on his equitable
distribution of them.[173-*]

_Salt Fish boiled._--(No. 150.)

Salt fish requires soaking, according to the time it has been in salt;
trust not to those you buy it of, but taste a bit of one of the flakes;
that which is hard and dry requires two nights' soaking, changing the
water two or three times; the intermediate day, lay it on a stone floor:
for barrelled cod less time will do; and for the best Dogger-bank split
fish, which has not been more than a fortnight or three weeks in salt,
still less will be needful.

Put it into plenty of cold water, and let it simmer very gently till it
is enough; if the water boils, the fish will be tough and
thready.[173-+] For egg sauce, see No. 267; and to boil red beet-root,
No. 127; parsnips, No. 128; Carrots, No. 129. Garnish salt