with the liquor it is boiled in, in a tureen.
"_Ling_ is brought to the London market in the same manner as cod, but
is very inferior to it, either fresh or salt."
[173-*] There are several species of codfish sold alive in the New-York
markets: of these, the common cod is the best, and is in season from
November till spring. The price varies from three to six cents the
pound, as the market is well or scantily supplied. The head and
shoulders of a large cod, boiled, is the best part to grace the
dinner-table. It is full of rich gelatinous matter, which is savoury and
easy of digestion. Cod's sounds and tongues are found on the stalls of
the fishmongers in the winter season. They are rich and nourishing, and
may be prepared to garnish the dish, or served up separately boiled. A.
[173-+] "In the sea-port towns of the New-England states in North
America, it has been a custom, time immemorial, among people of fashion,
to dine one day in the week (Saturday) on salt fish; and a long habit of
preparing the same dish has, as might have been expected, led to very
considerable improvements in the art of cooking it. I have often heard
foreigners declare, that they never tasted salt fish dressed in such
perfection: the secret of cooking it, is to keep it for several hours in
water that is _just scalding hot_, but which is never made actually to
boil."--COUNT RUMFORD'S _10th Essay_, p. 18.
[174-*] That part of a cod which is near the tail, is considered, in
America, as the poorest part of the fish. A.
[174-+] Sturgeons, though sea-fish, ascend the fresh water rivers, and
in the Hudson are taken 80 miles above the salt water. They were
formerly called Albany beef, having been in plenty and cheap in the
market of that city. They are not, however, esteemed even there; and
since the running of the steamboats, and the quickness of their
passages, all the valuable fish of the sea-coast are found in that
inland city. A.
[174-++] The French do not flay them, but split them, dip them in flour,
and fry them in hot dripping.
[175-*] One of my culinary counsellors says, the heading of this receipt
should be, "_How to dress a good dish of fish while the cloth is
laying_." If the articles are ready, twelve minutes will do it, with
very little trouble or expense. For richer stewed fish, see No. 164.
[176-*] Our experience goes to substantiate the same point. A.
[179-*] The perch of New-York are a small fresh-water fish, and seldom
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