rouble, &c. of making mock turtle,
may be supplied with it ready made, in high perfection, at BIRCH'S, in
Cornhill. It is not poisoned with Cayenne pepper, which the turtle and
mock turtle soup of most pastry cooks and tavern cooks is, and to that
degree, that it acts like a blister on the coats of the stomach. This
prevents our mentioning any other maker of this soup, which is often
made with cow-heel, or the mere scalp of the calf's head, instead of the
head itself.

The following are Mr. Birch's directions for warming this soup:--Empty
the turtle into a broad earthen vessel, to keep cool: when wanted for
table, to two quarts of soup add one gill of boiling water or veal
broth, put it over a good, clear fire, keeping it gently stirred (that
it may not burn); when it has boiled about three minutes, skim it, and
put it in the tureen.

N.B. The broth or water, and the wine, to be put into the stew-pan
before you put in the turtle.

[219-++] The reader may have remarked, that mock turtle and potted beef
always come in season together.

See _Obs._ to No. 503*. This gravy meat will make an excellent savoury
potted relish, as it will be impregnated with the flavour of the herbs
and spice that are boiled with it.

[220-*] "Many _gourmets_ and gastrologers prefer the copy to the
original: we confess that when done as it ought to be, the mock turtle
is exceedingly interesting."--_Tabella Cibaria_, 1820, p. 30.

"Turtles often become emaciated and sickly before they reach this country,
in which case the soup would be incomparably improved by leaving out
the turtle, and substituting a good calf's head."--_Supplement to
Encyc. Brit. Edinburgh_, vol. iv. p. 331.

[Very fine fat turtles are brought to New-York from the West Indies;
and, during the warm weather, kept in crawls till wanted: of these they
make soup, which surpasses any mock turtle ever made. A.]

[222-*] _Mullaga-tawny_ signifies pepper water. The progress of
inexperienced peripatetic palaticians has lately been arrested by these
outlandish words being pasted on the windows of our coffee-houses. It
has, we believe, answered the "_restaurateur's_" purpose, and often
excited JOHN BULL to walk in and taste: the more familiar name of curry
soup would, perhaps, not have had sufficient of the charms of novelty to
seduce him from his much-loved mock turtle.

It is a fashionable soup, and a great favourite with our East Indian
friends, and we give the best receipt w