e for 2_s._, and we
have seen an advertisement offering it for sale as low as 2_s._ 6_d._
per quart.

It must be kept very closely stopped; when you tap a bottle of sauce,
throw away the old perforated cork, and put in a new taper velvet cork;
if the air gets to it, the fish takes the rust,[281-+] and it is spoiled
directly.

Essence of anchovy is sometimes coloured[281-++] with bole armeniac,
Venice red, &c.; but all these additions deteriorate the flavour of the
sauce, and the palate and stomach suffer for the gratification of the
eye, which, in culinary concerns, will never be indulged by the
sagacious gourmand at the expense of these two _primum mobiles_ of his
pursuits.

*.* Essence of anchovy is sometimes made with sherry or Madeira wine, or
good mushroom catchup (No. 439), instead of water. If you like the acid
flavour, add a little citric acid, or dissolve them in good vinegar.

N.B. This is infinitely the most convenient way of using anchovy, as
each guest may mix sauce for himself, and make it strong or weak,
according to his own taste.

It is also much more economical, as plain melted butter (No. 256) serves
for other purposes at table.

_Anchovy Paste, or le Beurre d'Anchois._--(No. 434.)

Pound them in a mortar; then rub it through a fine sieve; pot it, cover
it with clarified butter, and keep it in a cool place.

N.B. If you have essence of anchovy, you may make anchovy paste
extempore, by rubbing the essence with as much flour as will make a
paste. _Mem._--This is merely mentioned as the means of making it
immediately; it will not keep.

_Obs._--This is sometimes made stiffer and hotter by the addition of a
little flour of mustard, a pickled walnut, spice (No. 460), curry powder
(No. 455), or Cayenne; and it then becomes a rival to "_la veritable
sauce d'enfer_" (No. 528), or _pate a la diable_ for deviling biscuits
(No. 574), grills (No. 538), &c. It is an excellent garnish for fish,
put in pats round the edge of the dish, or will make anchovy toast (No.
573), or devil a biscuit (No. 574), &c. in high style.

_Anchovy Powder._--(No. 435.)

Pound the fish in a mortar, rub them through a sieve, and make them into
a paste with dried flour, roll it into thin cakes, and dry them in a
Dutch oven before a slow fire; pounded to a fine powder, and put into a
well-stopped bottle, it will keep for years; it is a very savoury
relish, sprinkled on bread and butter for a sandwich, &c. See Oyster
Pow