il, stir all once
more well together, 'put out the light, and then!'--serve it round
instantly; for it is scarcely necessary to say, that a devil should
not only be hot in itself, but eaten hot.

"There is, however, one precaution to be used in eating it, to
which we most earnestly recommend the most particular attention;
and for want of which, more than one accident has occurred. It is
not, as some people might suppose, to avoid eating too much of it
(for that your neighbours will take good care to prevent); but it
is this: in order to pick the bones, you must necessarily take some
portion of it with your fingers; and, as they thereby become
impregnated with its flavour, if you afterward chance to let them
touch your tongue, you will infallibly lick them to the bone, if
you do not swallow them entire."--See page 124, &c. of the
entertaining "_Essays on Good Living_."

_Crusts of Bread for Cheese, &c._--(No. 538.)

It is not uncommon to see both in private families and at taverns a loaf
entirely spoiled, by furious epicures paring off the crust to eat with
cheese: to supply this, and to eat with soups, &c. pull lightly into
small pieces the crumb of a new loaf; put them on a tin plate, or in a
baking dish; set it in a tolerably brisk oven till they are crisp, and
nicely browned, or do them in a Dutch oven.

_Toast and Cheese._--(No. 539.)

"Happy the man that has each fortune tried,
To whom she much has giv'n, and much denied;
With abstinence all delicates he sees,
And can regale himself on toast and cheese."

KING'S _Art of Cookery_.

Cut a slice of bread about half an inch thick; pare off the crust, and
toast it very slightly on one side so as just to brown it, without
making it hard or burning it.

Cut a slice of cheese (good fat mellow Cheshire cheese, or double
Gloster, is better than poor, thin, single Gloster) a quarter of an
inch thick, not so big as the bread by half an inch on each side: pare
off the rind, cut out all the specks and rotten parts,[331-*] and lay it
on the toasted bread in a cheese-toaster; carefully watch it that it
does not burn, and stir it with a spoon to prevent a pellicle forming on
the surface. Have ready good mustard, pepper and salt.

If you observe the directions here given, the cheese will eat mellow,
and will be uniformly done, and the bread crisp and soft, and will well
deserve