pply
the place of it.

"_Bain-marie_ is a flat vessel containing boiling water; you put all
your stew-pans into the water, and keep that water always very hot, but
it must not boil: the effect of this _bain-marie_ is to keep every thing
warm without altering either the quantity or the quality, particularly
the quality. When I had the honour of serving a nobleman, who kept a
very extensive hunting establishment, and the hour of dinner was
consequently uncertain, I was in the habit of using _bain-marie_, as a
certain means of preserving the flavour of all my dishes. If you keep
your sauce, or broth, or soup, by the fireside, the soup reduces, and
becomes too strong, and the sauce thickens as well as reduces. This is
the best way of warming turtle, or mock turtle soup, as the thick part
is always at the bottom, and this method prevents it from burning, and
keeps it always good."--UDE'S _Cookery_, page 18.

[306-*] Probably a contraction of "_haut ragout_."

[308-*] The proverb says, "_Of all the fowls of the air_, commend me to
the shin of beef; for there's marrow for the master, meat for the
mistress, gristles for the servants, and bones for the dogs."

[309-*] The remotest parts of the world were visited, and earth, air,
and ocean ransacked, to furnish the complicated delicacies of a Roman
supper.

"_Suidas_ tells us, that _Pityllus_, who had a _hot_ tongue and a _cold_
stomach, in order to gratify the latter without offending the former,
made a sheath for his tongue, so that he could swallow his pottage
scalding hot; yea, I myself have known a Shropshire gentleman of the
like quality!!"--See Dr. MOFFAT _on Food_, 4to. 1655.

"In the refined extravagance of the tables of the great, where the
culinary arts are pushed to excess, luxury becomes false to itself, and
things are valued, not as they are nutritious, or agreeable to the
appetite, but in proportion as they are rare, out of season, or
costly."--CADOGAN _on Gout_, 8vo. 1771, p. 48.

[309-+] "Cookery is an art, appreciated by only a very few individuals,
and which requires, in addition to a most studious and diligent
application, no small share of intellect, and the strictest sobriety and
punctuality."--Preface to UDE'S _Cookery_, p. 6.

[310-*] This suet is not to be wasted: when it comes from the oven, take
out the beef, and strain the contents of the pan through a sieve; let it
stand till it is cold; then clarify the fat as directed in No. 83, and
it wil