this country may be considered as coming under
the denomination of a made dish of the second order, which is so
generally eaten, if good, as an omelette; and no one is so often badly
dressed: it is a very faithful assistant in the construction of a
dinner.

When you are taken by surprise, and wish to make an appearance beyond
what is provided for the every-day dinner, a little portable soup melted
down, and some zest (No. 255), and a few vegetables, will make a good
broth; a pot of the stewed veal of Morrison's, warmed up; an omelette;
and some apple or lemon fritters, can all be got ready at ten minutes'
notice, and with the original foundation of a leg of mutton, or a piece
of beef, will make up a very good dinner when company unexpectedly
arrives, in the country.

The great merit of an omelette is, that it should not be greasy, burnt,
nor too much done: if too much of the white of the eggs is left in, no
art can prevent its being hard, if it is done: to dress the omelette,
the fire should not be too hot, as it is an object to have the whole
substance heated, without much browning the outside.

One of the great errors in cooking an omelette is, that it is too thin;
consequently, instead of feeling full and moist in the mouth, the
substance presented is little better than a piece of fried leather: to
get the omelette thick is one of the great objects. With respect to the
flavours to be introduced, these are infinite; that which is most
common, however, is the best, viz. finely chopped parsley, and chives or
onions, or eschalots: however, one made of a mixture of tarragon,
chervil, and parsley, is a very delicate variety, omitting or adding the
onion or chives. Of the meat flavours, the veal kidney is the most
delicate, and is the most admired by our neighbours the French: this
should be cut in dice, and should be dressed (boiled) before it is
added; in the same manner, ham and anchovies, shred small, or tongue,
will make a very delicately flavoured dish.

The objection to an omelette is, that it is too rich, which makes it
advisable to eat but a small quantity. An addition of some finely mashed
potatoes, about two table-spoonfuls, to an omelette of six eggs, will
much lighten it.

Omelettes are often served with rich gravy; but, as a general principle,
no substance which has been fried should be served in gravy, but
accompanied by it, or what ought to eat dry and crisp, becomes soddened
and flat.

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