red jelly,[300-*] and ready for sauce for all kinds of ragouts
and hashes, &c. &c.

A fillet of veal I divide into three parts; the meat before it is
skewered, will of itself indicate where the partition is natural, and
will pull asunder as you would quarter an orange; the largest piece
should be stuffed with No. 374 or No. 375, and rolled up, compactly
skewered, &c., and makes a very pretty small fillet: the square flat
piece will either cut into cutlets (No. 90, or No. 521), or slice for a
pie; and the thick piece must be well larded and dressed as a
fricandeau; which I do in the following-manner: put the larded veal into
a stew-pan just big enough to contain it, with as much water as will
cover it; when it has simmered till delicately white, and so tender as
to be cut with a spoon, it must be taken out of the water and set apart;
and it will be ready to serve up either with sorrel, tomata, mushrooms
(No. 305, or No. 439), or some of the above-mentioned stock, the
fricandeau being previously coloured with glazing; if with mushrooms,
they should be first parboiled in salt and vinegar, and water, which
gives them flavour, and keeps them of a good colour.

The sirloin of beef I likewise divide into three parts; I first have it
nicely boned.

The under part, or fillet, as the French call it, will dress (when cut
into slices) excellently, either as plain steaks (No. 94), curry (No.
197), or it may be larded whole, and gently stewed in two quarts of
water (a bay-leaf, two onions, their skins roasted brown, four cloves,
allspice, &c. &c.) till tender, when it should be taken out, drained
quite dry, and put away; it is then ready to be used at any time in the
following manner: season and dredge it well, then put it into a stewpan
in which a piece of butter has been previously fried to a fine froth;
when the meat is sufficiently brown, take it out, and throw into the pan
half a dozen middle-sized onions, to do a fine gold colour; that
accomplished, (during which the dredger should be in constant use,) add
half a pint of stock, and a tea-spoonful of tarragon vinegar (No. 396),
and let the onions stew gently till nearly tender: the beef should then
be returned to the stew-pan, and the whole suffered to simmer till the
meat is warm through: care must be taken that the onions do not break,
and they should be served round the beef with as much sauce as will look
graceful in the dish. The fillet is likewise very good without the f