220), the latter with a "fatted calf." See Nos. 247, 343, and 343*.

The scarcity of tolerably good cooks ceases to be surprising, when we
reflect how much more astonishing is the ignorance of most of those who
assume the character of scientific gourmands,[309-+] so extremely
ignorant of "the affairs of the mouth," they seem hardly to "know a
sheep's head from a carrot;" and their real pretensions to be profound
palaticians, are as moderate as the wine-merchant's customer, whose
sagacity in the selection of liquors was only so exquisite, that he knew
that Port wine was black, and that if he drank enough of it, it would
make him drunk.

_Brisket of Beef stewed._--(No. 494.)

This is prepared in exactly the same way as "soup and bouilli." See Nos.
5, 238, or 493.

_Haricot of Beef._--(No. 495.)

A stewed brisket cut in slices, and sent up with the same sauce of
roots, &c., as we have directed for haricot of mutton (No. 489), is a
most excellent dish, of very moderate expense.

_Savoury Salt Beef baked._--(No. 496.)

The tongue side of a round of beef is the best bit for this purpose: if
it weighs fifteen pounds, let it hang two or three days; then take three
ounces of saltpetre, one ounce of coarse sugar, a quarter of an ounce
of black pepper, and the same of allspice (some add a quarter of an
ounce of ginger, or No. 457), and some minced sweet and savoury herbs
(No. 459), and three quarters of a pound of common salt; incorporate
these ingredients by pounding them together in a mortar; then take the
bone out, and rub the meat well with the above mixture, turning it and
rubbing it every day for a fortnight.

When you dress it, put it into a pan with a quart of water; cover the
meat with about three pounds of mutton suet[310-*] shredded rather
thick, and an onion or two minced small; cover the whole with a flour
crust to the top or brim of the pan, and let it be baked in a
moderate-heated oven for about six hours: (or, just cover it with water,
and let it stew very gently for about five hours, and when you send it
to table, cover the top of it with finely chopped parsley.) If the beef
weighs more, put a proportional addition of all the ingredients.

The gravy you will find a strong _consomme_, excellent for sauce or
soup; or making soy, or browning, see No. 322, and being impregnated
with salt, will keep several days.

This joint should not be cut till it is cold: and then, with a sharp
knife, to prevent w