.
Fresh lemon-peel, pared very thin, an ounce.
Peeled and sliced eschalots, the same.
Scraped horseradish, ditto.
Allspice, and
Black pepper powdered, half an ounce each.
Cayenne, one drachm, or curry-powder, three drachms.
Celery-seed bruised, a drachm. All avoirdupois weight.

Put these into a wide-mouthed bottle, stop it close, shake it up every
day for a fortnight, and strain it (when some think it improved by the
addition of a quarter of a pint of soy, or thick browning, see No. 322),
and you will have a "delicious double relish."

*.* This composition is one of the "chefs d'oeuvre" of many experiments
I have made, for the purpose of enabling the good housewives of Great
Britain to prepare their own sauces: it is equally agreeable with fish,
game, poultry, or ragouts, &c., and as a fair lady may make it herself,
its relish will be not a little augmented, by the certainty that all the
ingredients are good and wholesome.

_Obs._--Under an infinity of circumstances, a cook may be in want of the
substances necessary to make sauce: the above composition of the several
articles from which the various gravies derive their flavour, will be
found a very admirable extemporaneous substitute. By mixing a large
table-spoonful with a quarter of a pint of thickened melted butter,
broth, or No. 252, five minutes will finish a boat of very relishing
sauce, nearly equal to drawn gravy, and as likely to put your lingual
nerves into good humour as any thing I know.

To make a boat of sauce for poultry, &c. put a piece of butter about as
big as an egg into a stew-pan, set it on the fire; when it is melted,
put to it a table-spoonful of flour; stir it thoroughly together, and
add to it two table-spoonfuls of sauce, and by degrees about half a pint
of broth, or boiling water, let it simmer gently over a slow fire for a
few minutes, skim it and strain it through a sieve, and it is ready.

_Quintessence of Anchovy._--(No. 433.)

The goodness of this preparation depends almost entirely on having fine
mellow fish, that have been in pickle long enough (_i. e._ about twelve
months) to dissolve easily, yet are not at all rusty.

Choose those that are in the state they come over in, not such as have
been put into fresh pickle, mixed with red paint,[280-*] which some add
to improve the complexion of the fish; it has been said, that others
have a trick of putting anchovy liquor on pickled sprats;[280-+] you
will easily di