ore from idleness than from
ignorance, and rather because the cook won't than because she can't do
it; which can only be the case when housekeepers will not allow butter
to do it with.

Good melted butter cannot be made with mere flour and water; there must
be a full and proper proportion of butter. As it must be always on the
table, and is the foundation of almost all our English sauces, we have,

Melted butter and oysters,
---- ---- ---- parsley,
---- ---- ---- anchovies,
---- ---- ---- eggs,
---- ---- ---- shrimps,
---- ---- ---- lobsters,
---- ---- ---- capers, &c. &c. &c.

I have tried every way of making it; and I trust, at last, that I have
written a receipt, which, if the cook will carefully observe, she will
constantly succeed in giving satisfaction.

In the quantities of the various sauces I have ordered, I have had in
view the providing for a family of half-a-dozen moderate people.

Never pour sauce over meat, or even put it into the dish, however well
made, some of the company may have an antipathy to it; tastes are as
different as faces: moreover, if it is sent up separate in a boat, it
will keep hot longer, and what is left may be put by for another time,
or used for another purpose.

_Lastly._ Observe, that in ordering the proportions of meat, butter,
wine, spice, &c. in the following receipts, the proper quantity is set
down, and that a less quantity will not do; and in some instances those
palates which have been used to the extreme of _piquance_, will require
additional excitement.[228-*] If we have erred, it has been on the right
side, from an anxious wish to combine economy with elegance, and the
wholesome with the toothsome.

_Melted Butter._

Keep a pint stew-pan[228-+] for this purpose only.

Cut two ounces of butter into little bits, that it may melt more easily,
and mix more readily; put it into the stew-pan with a large tea-spoonful
(_i. e._ about three drachms) of flour, (some prefer arrow-root, or
potato starch, No. 448), and two table-spoonfuls of milk.

When thoroughly mixed, add six table-spoonfuls of water; hold it over
the fire, and shake it round every minute (all the while the same way),
till it just begins to simmer; then let it stand quietly and boil up. It
should be of the thickness of good cream.

N.B. Two table-spoonfuls of No. 439, instead of the milk, will make as
good mushroom sauce as need be, and is a superlative accompaniment to
either fish,