nt of milk, with onion,
pepper, &c. as in the last receipt; when the rice is quite tender (take
out the spice), rub it through a sieve into a clean stew-pan: if too
thick, put a little milk or cream to it.

_Obs._ This is a very delicate white sauce; and at elegant tables is
frequently served instead of bread sauce.

_Browning_,--(No. 322.)

Is a convenient article to colour those soups or sauces of which it is
supposed their deep brown complexion denotes the strength and
savouriness of the composition.

Burned sugar is also a favourite ingredient with the brewers, who use it
under the name of "essentia bina" to colour their beer: it is also
employed by the brandy-makers, in considerable quantity, to colour
brandy; to which, besides enriching its complexion, it gives that
sweetish taste, and fulness in the mouth, which custom has taught brandy
drinkers to admire, and prefer to the finest Cognac in its genuine
state.

When employed for culinary purposes, this is sometimes made with strong
gravy, or walnut catchup. Those who like a _gout_ of acid may add a
little walnut pickle.

It will hardly be told from what is commonly called "genuine Japanese
soy"[246-*] (for which it is a very good substitute). Burned treacle or
sugar, the peels of walnut, Cayenne pepper, or capsicums, or Chilies,
vinegar, garlic, and pickled herrings (especially the Dutch), Sardinias,
or sprats, appear to be the bases of almost all the sauces which now (to
use the maker's phrase) stand unrivalled.

Although indefatigable research and experiment have put us in possession
of these compositions, it would not be quite fair to enrich the cook at
the expense of the oilman, &c.; we hope we have said enough on these
subjects to satisfy "the rational epicure."

Put half a pound of pounded lump-sugar, and a table-spoonful of water,
into a clean iron saucepan, set it over a slow fire, and keep stirring
it with a wooden spoon till it becomes a bright brown colour, and begins
to smoke; then add to it an ounce of salt, and dilute it by degrees with
water, till it is the thickness of soy; let it boil, take off the scum,
and strain the liquor into bottles, which must be well stopped: if you
have not any of this by you, and you wish to darken the colour of your
sauces, pound a tea-spoonful of lump-sugar, and put it into an iron
spoon, with as much water as will dissolve it; hold it over a quick fire
till it becomes of a very dark brown colour; mix it wi