is preferred
to eat, and the female (on account of the eggs) to make sauce of. The
hen lobster is distinguished by having a broader tail than the male, and
less claws.

Set on a pot, with water salted in the proportion of a table-spoonful of
salt to a quart of water; when the water boils, put it in, and keep it
boiling briskly from half an hour to an hour, according to its size;
wipe all the scum off it, and rub the shell with a very little butter or
sweet oil; break off the great claws, crack them carefully in each
joint, so that they may not be shattered, and yet come to pieces easily;
cut the tail down the middle, and send up the body whole. For sauce, No.
285. To pot lobster, No. 178.

*.* These fish come in about April, and continue plentiful till the
oyster season returns; after that time they begin to spawn, and seldom
open solid.

_Crab._--(No. 177.)

The above observations apply to crabs, which should neither be too small
nor too large. The best size are those which measure about eight inches
across the shoulders.

*.* Crabs appear and disappear about the same time as lobsters. The
cromer crabs are most esteemed; but numbers are brought from the Isle of
Wight.

_Potted Lobster or Crab._[188-*]--(No. 178).

This must be made with fine hen lobsters, when full of spawn: boil them
thoroughly (No. 176); when cold, pick out all the solid meat, and pound
it in a mortar: it is usual to add, by degrees, (a very little)
finely-pounded mace, black or Cayenne pepper, salt, and, while pounding,
a little butter. When the whole is well mixed, and beat to the
consistence of paste, press it down hard in a preserving-pot, pour
clarified butter over it, and cover it with wetted bladder.

_Obs._--Some put lobster without pounding it, and only cut it or pull it
into such pieces as if it was prepared for sauce, and mince it with the
spawn and soft parts and seasoning, and press it together as close as
possible; in packing it, place the coral and spawn, &c. in layers, so
that it may look regular and handsome when cut out. If you intend it as
store (see N.B. to No. 284, to make sauce with), this is the best way to
do it; but if for sandwiches, &c. the first is the best, and will keep
much longer.

Dressed or buttered lobsters and crabs, are favourite ornamental dishes
with those who deck their table merely to please the eye. Our apology
for not giving such receipts will be found in _Obs._ to No. 322.

_OYSTERS._[18