Lobster Sauce, No. 284.

_Obs._ The thinnest part of the fish is the fattest; and if you have a
"grand gourmand" at table, ask him if he is for thick or thin.

The Thames salmon is preferred in the London market; and some epicures
pretend to be able to distinguish by the taste, in which reach of the
river it was caught!!!

N.B. If you have any left, put it into a pie-dish, and cover it with an
equal portion of vinegar and pump-water, and a little salt: it will be
ready in three days.

_Fresh Salmon broiled._--(No. 163.)

Clean the salmon well, and cut it into slices about an inch and a half
thick; dry it thoroughly in a clean cloth; rub it over with sweet oil,
or thick melted butter, and sprinkle a little salt over it: put your
gridiron over a clear fire, at some distance; when it is hot wipe it
clean; rub it with sweet oil or lard; lay the salmon on, and when it is
done on one side, turn it gently and broil the other. Anchovy sauce, &c.

_Obs._ An oven does them best.

_Soles or Eels,[181-*] &c. &c. stewed_ Wiggy's _way._--(No. 164.)

Take two pounds of fine silver[181-+] eels: the best are those that are
rather more than a half-crown piece in circumference, quite fresh, full
of life, and "as brisk as an eel:" such as have been kept out of water
till they can scarce stir, are good for nothing: gut them, rub them with
salt till the slime is cleaned from them, wash them in several different
waters, and divide them into pieces about four inches long.

Some cooks, after skinning them, dredge them with a little flour, wipe
them dry, and then egg and crumb them, and fry them in drippings till
they are brown, and lay them to dry on a hair sieve.

Have ready a quart of good beef gravy (No. 329); it must be cold when
you put the eels into it: set them on a slow fire to simmer very gently
for about a quarter of an hour, according to the size of the eels; watch
them, that they are not done too much; take them carefully out of the
stew-pan with a fish-slice, so as not to tear their coats, and lay them
on a dish about two inches deep.

Or, if for maigre days, when you have skinned your eels, throw the skins
into salt and water; wash them well; then put them into a stew-pan with
a quart of water, two onions, with two cloves stuck in each, and one
blade of mace; let it boil twenty minutes, and strain it through a sieve
into a basin.

Make the sauce about as thick as cream, by mixing a little flour with
it; put in a