ake an excellent PUDDING (No. 554); or clarify it, (No.
84) and use it for frying: for those who like their meat done
thoroughly, and use a moderate fire for roasting, the fat need not be
covered with paper.

_If your beef is large_, and your family small, cut off the thin end and
salt it, and cut out and dress the fillet (_i. e._ commonly called the
inside) next day as MOCK HARE (No. 66*): thus you get _three good hot
dinners_. See also No. 483, on made dishes. For SAUCE _for cold beef_,
see No. 359, cucumber vinegar, No. 399, and horseradish vinegar, Nos.
399* and 458.

[123-+] "This joint is often spoiled for the next day's use, by an
injudicious mode of carving. If you object to the outside, take the
brown off, and help the next: by the cutting it only on one side, you
preserve the gravy in the meat, and the goodly appearance also; by
cutting it, on the contrary, down the middle of this joint, all the
gravy runs out, it becomes dry, and exhibits a most unseemly aspect when
brought to table a second time."--From UDE'S _Cookery_, 8vo. 1818, p.
109.

[124-*] DEAN SWIFT'S _receipt to roast mutton_.

To GEMINIANI'S beautiful air--"_Gently touch the warbling lyre_."

"Gently stir and blow the fire,
Lay the mutton down to roast,
Dress it quickly, I desire,
In the dripping put a toast,
That I hunger may remove;--
Mutton is the meat I love.

"On the dresser see it lie;
Oh! the charming white and red!
Finer meat ne'er met the eye,
On the sweetest grass it fed;
Let the jack go swiftly round,
Let me have it nicely brown'd.

"On the table spread the cloth,
Let the knives be sharp and clean,
Pickles get and salad both,
Let them each be fresh and green.
With small beer, good ale, and wine,
O, ye gods! how I shall dine!"

[124-+] See the chapter of ADVICE TO COOKS.

[125-*] _Common cooks very seldom brown the ends of necks and loins_; to
have this done nicely, let the fire be a few inches longer at each end
than the joint that is roasting, and occasionally place the spit
slanting, so that each end may get sufficient fire; otherwise, after the
meat is done, you must take it up, and put the ends before the fire.

[127-*] To MINCE or HASH VEAL see No. 511, or 511*, and to make a RAGOUT
of cold veal, No. 512.

[131-*] _Priscilla Haslehurst_, in her _Housekeeper's Instructor_, 8vo.
Sheffield, 1819, p. 19, gives us a receipt "