rasburg pies_ are
made with livers thus prepared, and sell for an enormous price."

However incredible this _ordonnance_ for the obesitation of a goose's
liver may appear at first sight, will it not seem equally so to
after-ages, that in this enlightened country, in 1821, we encouraged a
folly as much greater, as its operation was more universal? Will it be
believed, that it was then considered the _acme_ of perfection in beef
and mutton, that it should be so _over_-fattened, that a poor man, to
obtain one pound of meat that he could eat, must purchase another which
he could not, unless converted into a suet pudding: moreover, that the
highest premiums were annually awarded to those who produced sheep and
oxen in the most extreme stale of _morbid obesity_?!!

----"expensive plans
For deluging of dripping-pans."

[141-*] This, in culinary technicals, is called _casing_ it upon the
same principle that "eating, drinking, and sleeping," are termed
_non-naturals_.

[141-+] Mrs. Charlotte Mason, in her "_Complete System of Cookery_,"
page 283, says, she has "tried all the different things recommended to
baste a hare with, and never found any thing so good as _small beer_;"
others order _milk_; drippings we believe is better than any thing. To
roast a hare nicely, so as to preserve the meat on the back, &c. juicy
and nutritive, requires as much attention as a sucking-pig.

Instead of washing, a "_grand Cuisinier_" says, it is much better to
wipe a hare with a thin, dry cloth, as so much washing, or indeed
washing at all, takes away the flavour.

[142-*] Liver sauce, Nos. 287 and 288.

[142-+] "They are only fit to be eaten when the blood runs from the
bill, which is commonly about 6 or 7 days after they have been killed,
otherwise it will have no more savour than a common fowl."--_Ude's
Cookery_, 8vo. 1819, page 216.

"Gastronomers, who have any sort of aversion to a peculiar taste in
game, properly kept, had better abstain from this bird, since it is
worse than a common fowl, if not waited for till it acquires the _fumet_
it ought to have. Whole republics of maggots have often been found
rioting under the wings of pheasants; but being _radically_ dispersed,
and the birds properly washed with vinegar, every thing went right, and
every guest, unconscious of the culinary ablutions, enjoyed the
excellent flavour of the Phasian birds."--_Tabella Cibaria_, p. 55.

[144-*] "This bird has so insinuated itself int