ked in water for six hours before you dress it. When you cook it,
wash and scrape it as clean as possible; when delicately dressed, it is
a favourite dish with almost every body. Take care it does not boil
fast; if it does, the knuckle will break to pieces, before the thick
part of the meat is warm through; a leg of seven pounds takes three
hours and a half very slow simmering. Skim your pot very carefully, and
when you take the meat out of the boiler, scrape it clean.

Some sagacious cooks (who remember to how many more nature has given
eyes than she has given tongues and brains), when pork is boiled, score
it in diamonds, and take out every other square; and thus present a
retainer to the eye to plead for them to the palate; but this is
pleasing the eye at the expense of the palate. A leg of nice pork,
nicely salted, and nicely boiled, is as nice a cold relish as cold ham;
especially if, instead of cutting into the middle when hot, and so
letting out its juices, you cut it at the knuckle: slices broiled, as
No. 487, are a good luncheon, or supper. To make pease pudding, and
pease soup extempore, see N.B. to Nos. 218 and 555.

MEM.--Some persons who sell pork ready salted have a silly trick of
cutting the knuckle in two; we suppose that this is done to save their
salt; but it lets all the gravy out of the leg; and unless you boil your
pork merely for the sake of the pot-liquor, which in this case receives
all the goodness and strength of the meat, friendly reader, your oracle
cautions you to buy no leg of pork which is slit at the knuckle.

If pork is not done enough, nothing is more disagreeable; if too much,
it not only loses its colour and flavour, but its substance becomes soft
like a jelly.

It must never appear at table without a good pease pudding (see No.
555), and, if you please, parsnips (No. 128); they are an excellent
vegetable, and deserve to be much more popular; or carrots (No. 129),
turnips, and greens, or mashed potatoes, &c. (No. 106.)

_Obs._--Remember not to forget the mustard-pot (No. 369, No. 370, and
No. 427).

_Pettitoes, or Sucking-Pig's Feet._--(No. 12.)

Put a thin slice of bacon at the bottom of a stew-pan with some broth, a
blade of mace, a few pepper-corns, and a bit of thyme; boil the feet
till they are quite tender; this will take full twenty minutes; but the
heart, liver, and lights will be done enough in ten, when they are to be
taken out, and minced fine.

Put them all toge