nes are generally salted and boiled.

_A Sucking-Pig_,[133-*]--(No. 56.)

Is in prime order for the spit when about three weeks old.

It loses part of its goodness every hour after it is killed; if not
quite fresh, no art can make the crackling crisp.

To be in perfection, it should be killed in the morning to be eaten at
dinner: it requires very careful roasting. A sucking-pig, like a young
child, must not be left for an instant.

The ends must have much more fire than the middle: for this purpose is
contrived an iron to hang before the middle part, called a pig-iron. If
you have not this, use a common flat iron, or keep the fire fiercest at
the two ends.

For the stuffing, take of the crumb of a stale loaf about five ounces;
rub it through a colander; mince fine a handful of sage (_i. e._ about
two ounces), and a large onion (about an ounce and a half[133-+]). Mix
these together with an egg, some pepper and salt, and a bit of butter as
big as an egg. Fill the belly of the pig with this, and sew it up: lay
it to the fire, and baste it with salad oil till it is quite done. Do
not leave it a moment: it requires the most vigilant attendance.

Roast it at a clear, brisk fire at some distance. To gain the praise of
epicurean pig-eaters, the crackling must be nicely crisped and
delicately lightly browned, without being either blistered or burnt.

A small, three weeks old pig will be done enough[133-++] in about an
hour and a half.

Before you take it from the fire, cut off the head, and part that and
the body down the middle: chop the brains very fine, with some boiled
sage leaves, and mix them with good veal gravy, made as directed in No.
192, or beef gravy (No. 329), or what runs from the pig when you cut its
head off. Send up a tureenful of gravy (No. 329) besides. Currant sauce
is still a favourite with some of the old school.

Lay your pig back to back in the dish, with one half of the head on each
side, and the ears one at each end, which you must take care to make
nice and crisp; or you will get scolded, and deservedly, as the silly
fellow was who bought his wife a pig with only one ear.

When you cut off the pettitoes, leave the skin long round the ends of
the legs. When you first lay the pig before the fire, rub it all over
with fresh butter or salad oil: ten minutes after, and the skin looks
dry; dredge it well with flour all over, let it remain on an hour, then
rub it off with a soft cloth.

N. B.