We hope our fair readers will forgive us, for telling them that economy
in a wife, is the most certain charm to ensure the affection and
industry of a husband.

[103-*] Though some of these people seem at last to have found out, that
an Englishman's head may be as full of gravy as a Frenchman's, and
willing to give the preference to native talent, retain an Englishman or
woman as prime minister of their kitchen; still they seem ashamed to
confess it, and commonly insist as a "_sine qua non_," that their
English domestics should understand the "_parlez vous_;" and
notwithstanding they are perfectly initiated in all the minutiae of the
philosophy of the mouth, consider them uneligible, if they cannot
scribble _a bill of fare in pretty good bad French_.

[104-*] The principal agents now employed to flavour soups and sauces
are, MUSHROOMS (No. 439), ONIONS (No. 420), ANCHOVY (No. 433),
LEMON-JUICE and PEEL, or VINEGAR, WINE, (especially good CLARET), SWEET
HERBS, and SAVOURY SPICES.--Nos. 420-422, and 457. 459, 460.

[105-*] If your palate becomes dull by repeatedly tasting, the best way
to refresh it is to wash your mouth well with milk.

[105-+] Before you put eggs or cream into a sauce, have all your other
ingredients well boiled, and the sauce or soup of proper thickness;
because neither eggs nor cream will contribute to thicken it.--After you
have put them in, do not set the stew-pan on the stove again, but hold
it over the fire, and shake it round one way till the sauce is ready.

CHAPTER IX.

MADE DISHES.

Under this general head we range our receipts for HASHES, STEWS, and
RAGOUTS,[106-*] &c. Of these there are a great multitude, affording the
ingenious cook an inexhaustible store of variety: in the French kitchen
they count upwards of 600, and are daily inventing new ones.

We have very few general observations to make, after what we have
already said in the two preceding chapters on _sauces_, _soups_, &c.,
which apply to the present chapter, as they form the principal part of
the accompaniment of most of these dishes. In fact, MADE DISHES are
nothing more than meat, poultry (No. 530), or fish (Nos. 146, 158, or
164), stewed very gently till they are tender, with a thickened sauce
poured over them.

Be careful to trim off all the skin, gristle, &c. that will not be
eaten; and shape handsomely, and of even thickness, the various articles
which compose your made dishes: this is sadly neglected by co