e next man that should pass by, who
chanced to be the most notorious idiot in the whole city: he, on the
relation of the matter, determined that the poor man's money should be
put between two empty dishes, and the cook should be recompensed with
the jingling of the poor man's money, as he was satisfied with the smell
of the cook's meat." This is affirmed by credible writers as no fable,
but an undoubted truth.--FULLER'S _Holy State_, lib. iii. c. 12, p. 20.

[98-*] If the gravy be not completely drained from it, the article
potted will very soon turn sour.

[99-*] Economists recommend these to be pounded; they certainly go
farther, as they call it; but we think they go too far, for they go
through the sieve, and make the soup grouty.

CHAPTER VIII.

GRAVIES AND SAUCES.

"The spirit of each dish, and ZEST of all,
Is what ingenious cooks the relish call;
For though the market sends in loads of food,
They are all tasteless, till that makes them good."

KING'S _Art of Cookery_.

"_Ex parvis componere magna._"

It is of as much importance that the cook should know how to make a boat
of good gravy for her poultry, &c. as that it should be sent up of
proper complexion, and nicely frothed.

In this chapter, we shall endeavour to introduce to her all the
materials[101-*] which give flavour in _sauce_, which is the _essence of
soup_, and intended to contain more relish in a _tea-spoonful_ than the
former does in a _table-spoonful_.

We hope to deserve as much praise from the _economist_ as we do from the
_bon vivant_; as we have taken great pains to introduce to him the
methods of making substitutes for those ingredients, which are always
expensive, and often not to be had at all. Many of these cheap articles
are as savoury and as salutary as the dearer ones, and those who have
large families and limited incomes, will, no doubt, be glad to avail
themselves of them.

The reader may rest assured, that whether he consults this book to
diminish the expense or increase the pleasures of hospitality, he will
find all the information that was to be obtained up to 1826,
communicated in the most unreserved and intelligible manner.

A great deal of the elegance of cookery depends upon the accompaniments
to each dish being appropriate and well adapted to it.

We can assure our readers, no attention has been wanting on our part to
render this department of the work worthy of their perusal; each