he Moors are very well known in Tunis, so many of them, passing
through from Mekka on the Hajj, have been prevented from getting
home by quarantine or lack of funds. Clad as a Moor myself, I was
everywhere recognized as from that country, and was treated with every
respect, being addressed as "Amm el Haj" ("Uncle Pilgrim"), having
my shoulders and hands kissed in orthodox fashion. There are several
_cafes_ where Morocco men are to be met with by the score. One feature
of this cosmopolitan city is that there are distinct _cafes_ for
almost every nation represented here except the English.

The Arabs of Morocco are looked upon as great thieves, but the
Susis have the highest reputation for honesty. Not only are all the
gate-keepers of the city from that distant province, but also those
of the most important stores and houses, as well as of the
railway-stations, and many are residents in the town. The chief
snake-charmers and story-tellers also hail from Sus.

The veneration for Mulai Taib of Wazzan, from whom the shareefs of
that place are descended, is great, and the Aisawa, hailing from
Mequinez, are to be met with all along this coast; they are especially
strong at Kairwan. In Tunis, as also in Algeria and Tripoli, the
comparative absence of any objection to having pictures taken of human
beings, which is an almost insurmountable hindrance in Morocco, again
allowed me to use my kodak frequently, but I found that the Jews had a
strong prejudice against portraits.

The points in which the domestic usages of Tunisia differ from those
of Morocco are the more striking on account of the remarkably minute
resemblance, if not absolute identity, of so very many others, and as
the novelty of the innovations wears off, it is hard to realize that
one is not still in the "Far West."

In a native household of which I found myself temporarily a member,
it was the wholesale assimilation of comparatively trivial foreign
matters which struck me. Thus, for instance, as one of the sons of
my host remarked--though he was dressed in a manner which to most
travellers would have appeared exclusively oriental--there was not a
thing upon him which was not French. Doubtless a closer examination of
his costume would have shown that some of the articles only reached
him through French hands, but the broad fact remained that they were
all foreign. It is in this way that the more civilized countries
show a strong and increasing tendency to devel