at Alonzo el Sabio
took it from them in 1229. Zamora is another ancient place. It was
taken from the Moors in 939, when 40,000 of them are said to have been
killed. The Moorish designs in the remarkable circular arches of La
Magdalena are worthy of note.

In Toledo the church of Santo Tome has a brick tower of Moorish
character; near it is the Moorish bridge of San Martin, and in the
neighbourhood, by a stream leading to the Tagus, Moorish mills and the
ruins of a villa with Moorish arches, now a farm hovel, may still
be seen. The ceiling of the chapel of the church of San Juan de la
Penetencia is in the Moorish style, much dilapidated (1511 A.D.). The
Toledan Moors were first-rate hydraulists. One of their kings had a
lake in his palace, and in the middle a kiosk, whence water descended
on each side, thus enclosing him in the coolest of summer-houses.
It was in Toledo that Ez-Zarkal made water-clocks for astronomical
calculations, but now this city obtains its water only by the
primitive machinery of donkeys, which are driven up and down by
water-carriers as in Barbary itself. The citadel was once the kasbah
of the Moors.

The Cathedral of Toledo is one of the most remarkable in Spain. The
arches of the transept are semi-Moorish, Xamete, who wrought it
in Arcos stone in 1546-50, having been a Moor. The very ancient
manufactory of arms for which Toledo has a world-wide fame dates from
the time of the Goths; into this the Moors introduced their Damascene
system of ornamenting and tempering, and as early as 852 this
identical "fabrica" was at work under Abd er-Rahman ibn El Hakim. The
Moors treasured and named their swords like children. These were the
weapons which Othello, the Moor, "kept in his chamber."

[Illustration: _Cavilla, Photo., Tangier._

THE MARKET-PLACE, TETUAN.]

At Alcazar de San Juan, in La Mancha, I found a few remnants of the
Moorish town, as in the church tower, but the name is now almost the
only Moorish thing about it. Hence we pass to Alarcon, a truly Moorish
city, built like a miniature Toledo, on a craggy peninsula hemmed in
by the river Jucar. The land approach is still guarded by Moorish
towers and citadel.

In Zocodovar--which takes its name from the word sok,
"market-place"--we find a very Moorish "plaza," with its irregular
windows and balconies, and in San Eugenio are some remains of an
old mosque with Kufic inscriptions, as well as an arch and tomb of
elaborate design. In the Call