must their descendants live still, although no
longer distinguished from true sons of the soil.
Whatever may remain of the ancient Saguntum, what is visible is mostly
Moorish, as, for instance, cisterns on the site of a Roman temple. Not
far from Valencia is Burjasot, where are yet to be seen specimens of
matmorahs or underground granaries. Morella is a scrambling town with
Moorish walls and towers, coroneted by a castle.
Entering Catalonia, Tortosa, at the mouth of the Ebro, is reached,
once a stronghold of the Moors, and a nest of pirates till recovered
by Templars, Pisans and Genoese together. It was only withheld from
the Moors next year by the valour of the women besieged. The tower of
the cathedral still bears the title of Almudena, a reminder of the
muedhdhin who once summoned Muslims to prayer from its summit.
Here, too, are sundry remnants of Moorish masonry, and some ancient
matmorahs.
Tarragona and Barcelona, if containing no Moorish ruins of note, have
all, in common with other neighbouring places, retained the Arabic
name Rambla (rimlah, "sand") for the quondam sandy river beds which of
late years have been transformed into fashionable promenades. In the
cathedral of Tarragona an elegant Moorish arch is noticeable, with a
Kufic inscription giving the date as 960 A.D. For four centuries after
this city was destroyed by Tarif it remained unoccupied, so that
much cannot be expected to call to mind his dynasty. Of a bridge at
Martorell over the Llobregat, Ford says it is "attributed to Hannibal
by the learned, and to the devil, as usual, by the vulgar. The pointed
centre arch, which is very steep and narrow to pass, is 133 feet wide
in the span, and is unquestionably a work of the Moors." Not far away
is a place whose name, Mequineza, is strongly suggestive of Moorish
origin, but I know nothing further about it.
Now let us retrace our flight, and wing our way once more to the north
of Seville, to the inland province of Estremadura. Here we start from
Merida, where the Roman-Moorish "alcazar" towers proudly yet. The
Moors repaired the old Roman bridge over the Guadiana, and the gateway
near the river has a marble tablet with an Arabic inscription. The
Muslims observed towards the people of this place good faith such as
was never shown to them in return, inasmuch as they allowed them to
retain their temples, creed, and bishops. They built the citadel in
835, and the city dates its decline from the time th
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