of that character which are in most
instances still active. This is the case at the Alhama between Malaga
and Granada, where the baths are worth a visit. The Moorish bath is
called the strong one, being nearer the spring.

At Antequera the castle is Moorish, though built on Roman foundations,
and it is only of recent years that the mosque has disappeared under
the "protection" of an impecunious governor.

Leaving the much-sung Andalus, the first name striking us in Murcia is
that of Guadix (pronounced Wadish), a corruption of Wad Aish, "River
of Life." Its Moorish castle still stands. Some ten leagues further
on, at Cullar de Baza is another Moorish ruin, and the next of note, a
fine specimen, is fifteen leagues away at Lorca, whose streets are in
the genuine intricate style. The city of Murcia, though founded by the
Moors, contains little calling them to remembrance. In the post-office
and prison, however, and in the public granary, mementoes are to be
found.

Orihuela, on the road from Carthagena to Alicante, still looks
oriental with its palm-trees, square towers and domes, and Elche is
just another such, with flat roofs and the orthodox kasbah, now a
prison. The enormous number of palms which surround the town recall
Marrakesh, but they are sadly neglected. Monte Alegre is a small place
with a ruined Moorish castle, about fifteen leagues from Elche on the
road to Madrid. Between Alicante and Xativa is the Moorish castle of
Tibi, close to a large reservoir, and there is a square Moorish tower
at Concentaina. Xativa has a hermitage, San Felin, adorned with
horse-shoe arches, having a Moorish cistern hard by.

Valencia the Moors considered a Paradise, and their skill in
irrigation has been retained, so that of the Guadalaviar (Wad el
Abiad--"River of the Whites") the fullest use is made in agriculture,
and the familiar water-wheels and conduits go by the corruptions of
their Arabic names, naorahs and sakkaiahs. The city itself is very
Moorish in appearance, with its narrow tortuous streets and gloomy
buildings, but I know of no remarkable legacy of the Moors there.
There are the remains of a Moorish aqueduct at Chestalgar--a very
Arabic sounding name, of which the last two syllables are corrupted
from El Gharb ("the West") as in the case of Trafalgar (Terf el
Gharb--"West Point"). All this district was inhabited by the Moriscos
or Christianized Moors as late as the beginning of the seventeenth
century, and there