crusade against the Christians each year, and was
buried in the dust of fifty campaigns, for after every battle he used
to shake off the soil from his garments into a chest which he carried
about with him for that purpose.

In Aragon the situation of Daroca, in the fertile basin of the Jiloca,
is very picturesque. The little town lies in a hill-girt valley around
which rise eminences defended by Moorish walls and towers, which,
following the irregular declivities, command charming views from
above. The palace of the Mendozas at Guadalajara, in the same
district, boasts of an elegant row of Moorish windows, though these
appear to have been constructed after Guadalajara was reconquered
from the Moors by the Spaniards. Near this place is a Moorish brick
building, turned into a battery by the invaders, and afterwards used
as a prison. Before leaving this town it will be worth while to visit
San Miguel, once a mosque, with its colonnaded entrance, horse-shoe
arches, machiolations, and herring-bone patterns under the roof.

Calatayud, the second town of Aragon, is of Moorish origin. Its
Moorish name means the "Castle of Ayub"--or Job--the nephew of Musa,
who used the ancient Bilbilis as a quarry whence to obtain stones for
its construction. The Dominican convent of Calatayud has a glorious
patio with three galleries rising one above another, and a portion of
the exterior is enriched with pseudo-Moorish work like the prisons at
Guadalajara.

Saragossa gave me more the impression of Moorish origin than any
town I saw in Spain, except Seville and Cordova. The streets of the
original settlement are just those of Mequinez on a small scale. The
only object of genuinely Moorish origin that I could find, however,
was the Aljaferia, once a palace-citadel, now a barrack, so named
after Jafer, a Muslim king of this province. Since his times Ferdinand
and Isabella used it, and then handed it over to the Inquisition. Some
of the rooms still retain Moorish decorations, but most of the latter
are of the period of their conquerors. On one ceiling is pointed out
the first gold brought from the New World. The only genuine Moorish
remnant is the private mosque, with beautiful inscriptions. The
building has been incorporated in a huge fort-like modern brick
structure, which would lead no one to seek inside for Arab traces.

Passing from Saragossa northwards, we arrive at Jaca, the railway
terminus, which to this day quarters on her shield th