while a stream runs down the top of each side wall in
a channel made of tiles. What a pleasant sight and sound to those
to whom stair climbing in a broiling sun is too much exercise! The
cypresses in the garden are very fine, but they give none too much
shade. The present owner's agent has Bu Abd Allah's sword on view at
his house in the town, and this is a gem worth asking to see when a
ticket is obtained for the Generalife. It is of a totally different
pattern and style of ornament from the modern Moorish weapons, being
inlaid in a very clever and tasteful manner.

To the antiquary the most interesting part of Granada is the Albaycin,
the quarter lying highest up the valley of the Darro, originally
peopled by refugees from the town of Baeza--away to the north, beyond
Jaen--the Baiseein. As the last stronghold of Moorish rule in the
Peninsula, when one by one the other cities, once its rivals, fell
into the hands of the Christians again, Granada became a centre
of refuge from all parts, and to this owed much of its ultimate
importance.

Unfortunately no attempt has been made to preserve the many relics of
that time which still exist in this quarter, probably the worst in the
town. Many owners of property in the neighbourhood can still display
the original Arabic title deeds, their estates having been purchased
by Spanish grandees from the expelled Moors, or later from the
expelled Jews. A morning's tour will reveal much of interest in back
alleys and ruined courts. One visitor alone is hardly safe among the
wild half-gipsy lot who dwell there now, but a few copper coins are
all the keys needed to gain admission to some fine old patios with
marble columns, crumbling fandaks, and ruined baths. By the roadside
may be seen the identical style of water-mill still used in Morocco,
and the presence of the Spaniard seems a dream.

V. HITHER AND THITHER

Having now made pilgrimages to the more famous homes of the Moor in
Europe, let us in fancy take an aerial flight over sunny Spain, and
glance here and there at the scattered traces of Muslim rule in less
noted quarters. Everything we cannot hope to spy, but we may still
surprise ourselves and others by the number of our finds. Even this
task accomplished, a volume on the subject might well be written by a
second Borrow or a Ford, whose residence among the modern Moors had
sharpened his scent for relics of that ilk.[28] Let not the reader
think that with these wayside