jottings all has been disclosed, for the
Moor yet lives in Spain, and there is far more truth in the saying
that "Barbary begins at the Pyrenees" than is generally imagined.

[28: To the latter I am indebted for particulars regarding the many
places mentioned in this final survey which it was impossible
for me to visit.]

We will start from Tarifa, perhaps the most ancient town of Andalucia.
The Moors named this ancient Punic city after T'arif ibn Malek ("The
Wise, son of King"), a Berber chief. They beleaguered it about 1292,
and it is still enclosed by Moorish walls. The citadel, a genuine
Moorish castle, lies just within these walls, and was not so long
ago the abode of galley-slaves. Close to Seville, where the river
Guadalquivir branches off, it forms two islands--Islas Mayor y Menor.
The former was the Kaptal of the Moors. At Coria the river winds under
the Moorish "Castle of the Cleft" (El Faraj), now called St. Juan
de Alfarache, and passes near the Torre del Oro, a monument of
the invader already referred to. Old Xeres, of sherry fame, is a
straggling, ill-built, ill-drained Moorish city. It was taken from the
Moors in 1264. Part of the original walls and gates remain in the
old town. The Moorish citadel is well preserved, and offers a good
specimen of those turreted and walled palatial fortresses.

But it is not till we reach Seville that we come to a museum of
Moorish antiquities. Here we see Arabesque ceilings, marqueterie
woodwork, stucco panelling, and the elegant horse-shoe arches. There
are beautiful specimens in the citadel, in Calle Pajaritos No. 15, in
the Casa Prieto and elsewhere. The Moors possessed the city for five
hundred years, during which time they entirely rebuilt it, using the
Roman buildings as materials. Many Moorish houses still exist, the
windows of which are barricaded with iron gratings. On each side of
the patios, or courts, are corridors supported by marble pillars,
whilst a fountain plays in the centre. These houses are rich
in Moorish porcelain tilings, called azulejos--from the Arabic
ez-zulaij--but the best of these are in the patio of the citadel.
Carmona is not far off, with its oriental walls and castle, famous as
ever for its grateful springs. The tower of San Pedro transports us
again to Tangier, as do the massy walls and arched gate.

Some eight leagues on the way to Badajos from Seville rises a Moorish
tower, giving to the adjoining village the name o