supplying
these graceful branches to Rome, for the Church ceremonies at
Easter-time.

Savona was the largest town passed on our route. It has a very fine
Cathedral, and was at one time a considerable port. A little further
eastward on the coast is Pegli, a pretty little seaside place, fast
growing into favour. The Imperial Princess of Germany stayed here with
her children some time since.

* * * * *

After a very pleasant journey by rail we reached Genoa at 10 p.m.

Genoa, Genes, Genova, as it is called in English, French, and Italian,
derives its name from the Latin word _genu_, the knee, supposed to be
the shape of the large inlet of the sea around which the land lies in a
vast semicircle. It is also called "La Superba," from its magnificent
situation; indeed, few cities equal its imposing grandeur as seen from
the sea. Handsome buildings line the shore for about the length of two
miles; splendid palaces, churches, and convents rise tier upon tier on
the steep sides of the hills, whose barren summits are crowned by
formidable-looking forts and ramparts. Immediately behind are the
Apennines, and upon these mountain heights are again several strong
forts commanding the town, which is also enclosed by a double line of
fortifications on the land side. The stern aspect of these works is
relieved by gardens, whose foliage gives the one touch needed to soften
the beauty of the whole. The harbour has a pier at each end, and upon
one of these is a very fine lighthouse.

From time immemorial Genoa has been famous as a seaport, and as the
contemporary and rival of fair Venice, and, like her, has had a proud
and eventful history. How sadly are these splendid cities of the past,
these great and wealthy republics of ancient times, sunk at the present
day to a shadow of their former magnificence and grandeur! Their ruined
splendour alone remains to show us what they were. But it is like gazing
on the beauty of death; the soul, the spirit, is wanting, and we are
continually haunted by the hollow mockery of the empty house which was
once its dwelling. Doubtless the Genoese are proud of their city, yet it
reminds one of the last descendant of a long and ancient pedigree, whose
ancestors were once lords of many a fair manor, but who now has nothing
but his name left, to recall the recollections of bygone days, and
points on this side and on that, with the words "These lands once
belonged to my illus