and I took this opportunity to make observations for longitude. Also
altitude with hypsometrical apparatus. Water boiled at 185 deg. with
temperature of atmosphere at 64 deg..

I had just repacked my instruments, and was lying flat in the sun, some
distance away from my men, when I thought I saw something move. Jumping
up, I beheld a stalwart Tibetan stealing along the ground only a few
yards away from me, with the object no doubt of taking possession of my
rifle before I had time to discover him. Unfortunately for him, he was
not quick enough, and all that he gained for his attempt was a good
pounding with the butt of my Mannlicher. He was one of the Dakus we had
seen in the morning, and no doubt they had followed and spied upon us all
along. Having got over his first surprise, the dacoit, with an amusing
air of assumed innocence, requested us to go and spend the night in his
tent with him and his mates. They would treat us right royally, he said.
Being, however, well acquainted with the hospitality of dacoits, we
declined the invitation. The brigand went away somewhat shaken and
disappointed, and we continued our journey along the water-edge of the
Devil's Lake (Rakas-tal), where hundreds of hares sprang from under our
feet, several of which I killed with my rifle, using bullet cartridges.
There were signs all along that at some previous epoch the level of the
lake must have been much higher than it is at present.

Marching during the day we encountered many Tibetans, some of whom were
Dogpas, others Jogpas. When they saw us approaching they generally
bolted, driving their sheep or yaks in front of them. Nevertheless, we
came upon two Tibetan women, very dirty, and their faces smeared with
black ointment to prevent the skin from cracking in the high wind. They
were dressed in long sheepskin garments, worn out and filthy, and their
coiffures were so unwashed that they emitted a sickening odour. I ordered
them not to come too near us, for although these females had no claims
whatever to beauty--and, as far as I could see they possessed no other
charm--one being old and toothless, the other with a skin like a lizard,
they actually tried to decoy us to their tents, possibly with the object
of getting us robbed by their men. My men seemed little attracted by the
comical speeches and gestures with which they sought to beguile us, and I
pushed on so as to be rid of this uncanny pack as soon as possible.

Four Tibetans, who