r a curious position, for to proceed
we must either pass by the Tibetan encampment, or we must march
southwards round a mountain, which would involve considerable trouble,
fatigue, and waste of time. We waited till night came, watching, unseen,
the Tibetans below us. As is customary with them, they retired at sundown
to their tents. Leaving my men behind, I crawled into their camp during
the night and peeped into one of the tents. The men were squatting on the
ground, round a fire in the centre, upon which steamed two vessels with
stewing tea. One old man, with strongly-marked Mongolian features,
accentuated by the heavy shadows which were cast by the light of the fire
above his angular cheek-bones and prominent and wrinkled brow, was
busily revolving his prayer-wheel from left to right, repeating in a
mechanical way the usual _Omne mani padme hun_, words which come from the
Sanscrit, and refer to the reincarnation of Buddha from a lotus flower,
meaning literally, "O God, the gem emerging from a lotus flower." Two or
three other men, whose faces I could not well see, as they were stooping
very low, were busy counting money and examining several articles of
Indian manufacture, which undoubtedly had been seized from Shokas. It was
fortunate that they had no dogs in this camp, for I, having discovered
our best way to pass them unperceived, went back to my men and led them,
in the middle of the night, through the camp itself. We proceeded for a
mile or so beyond the encampment, and having selected a well-sheltered
spot where we could rest without fear of discovery, we laid down our
loads and tried to get a few hours' sleep. Waking at sunrise we were
startled to find ourselves surrounded by a band of dacoits. They were our
friends of the previous night, who, having followed our tracks, and
mistaking us for Shoka traders, had now come for a little festive
looting. On drawing near they were given a somewhat warm reception, and
their instant retreat was more speedy than dignified.

[21] _Rakastal_--Devil's Lake, also very frequently pronounced Rakstal.

CHAPTER XXXIX

Spied and followed by robbers--Jogpas'
hospitality--Hares--Tibetan charms resisted--Attempt to snatch
Chanden Sing's rifle out of his hands--The ridge between Rakas
and Mansarowar Lakes.

WE wended our way along a narrow valley towards the shore of the Devil's
Lake, halting to cook our food about half a mile from the water's edge,