tresses, brought up and fastened
in a graceful curve over the head, kept firm by a red turban, which was
arranged to show another row of little tresses on the forehead, the ends
being joined in succession to one another. They wore large earrings of
gold inlaid with malachite, and were in manner so unaffected that they
disregarded even the most primitive conventions.

The children were talkative, and had the bearing of adults. They wore
swords in their belts, even at the early age of eight or ten years. In a
basket that had been carried by one of the yaks I saw an infant only a
few months old. I caressed it, to the horror of his superstitious mother,
who snatched the child away and washed and rubbed the poor little
fellow's face until the skin was sore, declaring that children die who
are touched by strangers.

The men were just as bad in this, and when I purchased some rice from
them they would not let me handle it till it had become my property. They
objected each time that I stretched out my arm to touch the bag of rice,
and showed me eventually a handful of rice at a considerable distance, to
let me judge of its quality. I had to purchase only the handful at first.
Having assured myself that it was all right, I then purchased the
remainder.

CHAPTER XLII

A Daku's strange ideas--The ridge between the two lakes--Black
tents--Confronting the two lakes--A chain of high
peaks--Gombas--Change in the weather.

WE had marched on the same afternoon about half a mile in the direction
of Mansarowar, when we were overtaken by one of the Dakus, whom we had
left a short time before. He rode towards us, apparently in a great state
of excitement. Having dismounted, he drew his sword and began chasing one
of my yaks. This seemed so strange a proceeding that we were at a loss to
understand his intentions, but as he screamed to us that he meant no harm
we let him go on. He eventually overtook one recalcitrant yak, and, after
a struggle with the unfortunate beast, he flung his arms round its neck
and rested his head between its horns. I was anything but pleased with
these antics, fearing that this effusion was only a dodge to cut the
beast's throat. Much to my astonishment, I found that the young Jogpa had
seized a tuft of the yak's hair with his teeth and was trying to tear it
off, while the unfortunate beast was making desperate efforts to shake
off its persecutor. The hair eventually gave way, and with a