uestions--Start for Lapland--Arctic
Daylight--Campbell's Tornea--A Finnish Inn--Colours of the Arctic
Sky--Approach to Avasaxa--Crossing the Arctic Circle--An Afternoon
Sunset--Reception at Juoxengi 72

CHAPTER VIII.

ADVENTURES AMONG THE FINNS.

Journey up the Tornea--Wonders of the Winter Woods--Lapps and
Reindeer--My Finnish Vocabulary--A Night Journey--Reception at
Kengis--Continue the Journey--Finnish Sleds--A Hard Day--The
Inn at Jokijalka--Its Inmates--Life in a Finnish Hut--An Arctic
Picture--A Frozen Country--Kihlangi--A Polar Night--Parkajoki--We
reach Muoniovara. 83

CHAPTER IX.

LIFE IN LAPLAND.

Reception at Muoniovara--Mr. Wolley--Our Lapland Home--A Finnish
Bath--Send for Reindeer--A Finnish House--Stables--The Reindeer
Pulk--My first Attempt at driving Reindeer--Failure and Success
--Muonioniska--View from the Hill--Fears of an old Finn--The
Discovery of America--A Lapp Witch--Reindeer Accident. 98

CHAPTER X.

A REINDEER JOURNEY ACROSS LAPLAND.

Preparations for the Journey--Departure--A lazy Deer--"Long
Isaac"--An Auroral Spectacle--A Night at Palajoki--The Table-Land
of Lapland--Sagacity of the Deer--Driving a wild Reindeer--Polar
Poetry--Lippajarvi--Picture of a Lapp--The Night--A Phantom
Journey--The Track lost--A Lapp Encampment--Two Hours in a Lapp
Tent--We start again--Descent into Norway--Heavy Travel--Lapp Hut
in Siepe--A Fractious Reindeer--Drive to Kautokeino. 101

CHAPTER XI.

KAUTOKEINO--A DAY WITHOUT A SUN.

Lapland Etiquette--The Inn--Quarters at the Lansman's--Situation
of Kautokeino--Climate--Life--Habits of the Population--Approach
of Sunrise--Church Service in Lapland--Cold Religion--Noonday
without Sunrise--The North and the South--A Vision--Visits of the
Lapps--Lars Kaino--A Field for Portrait-painting--Character of
the Lapp Race--Their present Condition--The religious Outbreak at
Kautokeino--Pastor Hvoslef--A Piano in Lapland--The Schools--Visit
to a Gamme 126

CHAPTER XII.

THE RETURN TO MUONIOVARA.

Advantages of Lapp Costume--Turning Southward--Departure from
Kautokeino--A Lapp Hut--Religion--The Reindeer--Their Qualities
--Treatment by the Lapps--Annoyances of Reindeer Travel--Endurance
of Northern Girls--The Table-Land--The "Roof of the World"--Journey
to Lippajarvi--