them by the aid of
my eyes.

BAYARD TAYLOR.

LONDON: November, 1857.

CONTENTS.
Page

CHAPTER I.

A WINTER VOYAGE ON THE BALTIC.

Embarking at Lubeck--Put into a Hut--The Company on Board--Night
on the Baltic--Ystad--A Life Lost--Stopped by Ice--A Gale--The
Swedish Coast--Arrival at Dalaro--Conscientious Custom-House
Officer 13

CHAPTER II.

STOCKHOLM--PREPARATIONS FOR THE NORTH.

Departure in Sleds--A Meteor--Winter Scenery--Swedish Post-
Stations--View of Stockholm--Arrival--Stockholm Weather--Swedish
Ignorance of the North--Funds--Equipment 21

CHAPTER III.

FIRST EXPERIENCES OF NORTHERN TRAVEL.

A Swedish Diligence--Aspect of the Country--Upsala--A Fellow-
Passenger--The Northern Gods--Scenery--Churches--Peasant's
Houses--Arrival at Gefle--_Forbud_ Papers--Speaking Swedish
--Daylight at Gefle--A Cold Italian--Experience of _Skjuts_
and _Forbud_--We reach Snow--Night Travel--An Arabic Landlord
--A Midnight Chase--Quarters at Bro--The Second Day--We reach
Sundsvall 27

CHAPTER IV.

A SLEIGH RIDE THROUGH NORRLAND.

Sundsvall and the Norrlanders--Purchase Sleighs--Start again--
Driving on the Ice--Breakfast at Fjal--Twilight Hymn--Angermannland
--A Bleak Day--Scenery of Norrland--Postillions--Increase of Cold
--Dark Travel--The Norrland People--The Country and its Products
--Northern Thanks--Umea--The Inn at Innertafle 39

CHAPTER V.

PROGRESS NORTHWARD--A STORM.

Christmas Temperature--First Experience of intense Cold--Phenomena
thereof--Arctic Travel--Splendour of the Scenery--The Northern
Nature--Gross Appetites--My Nose and the Mercury Frozen--Dreary
Travel--Skelleftea and its Temple--A Winter Storm--The Landlady
at Abyn--Ploughing out--Travelling in a Tempest--Reach Pitea. 50

CHAPTER VI.

JOURNEY FROM PITEA TO HAPARANDA.

Torment--Under the Aurora Borealis--A Dismal Night--Around the
Bothnian Gulf--Forest Scenery--Mansbyn--The Suspicious Iron-Master
--Brother Horton and the Cold--A Trial of Languages--Another
Storm--New Year's Day--Entrance into Finland--The Finns--Haparanda. 62

CHAPTER VII.

CROSSING THE ARCTIC CIRCLE.

Medical Treatment--The Kind Fredrika--Morals in the North--Our
Quarters at Haparanda--Vain Q