Descent to the Muonio--Female Curiosity--The Return
to Muoniovara--Prosaic Life of the Lapps--Modern Prudery. 141

CHAPTER XIII.

ABOUT THE FINNS.

Change of Plans--Winter in Lapland--The Finns--Their Physical
Appearance--Character--Drunkenness--A Spiritual Epidemic--
Morality--Contradictory Customs--Family Names and Traditions
--Apathy of Northern Life--The Polar Zone--Good Qualities of the
Race--An English Naturalist. 154

CHAPTER XIV.

EXPERIENCES OF ARCTIC WEATHER.

Departure from Muoniovara--50 deg. below Zero--A terrible Day--An
Arctic Night--Jokijalka again--Travelling down the Tornea--A
Night at Kardis--Increase of Daylight--Juoxengi--A Struggle for
Life--Difficulty of keeping awake--Frozen Noses--The Norseman's
Hell--Freezing Travellers--Full Daylight again--Safe Arrival at
Haparanda--Comfort--The Doctor's Welcome--Drive to Tornea--The
Weather. 164

CHAPTER XV.

INCIDENTS OF THE RETURN JOURNEY.

Mild Weather!--Miraculous Scenery--Nasby--Swedish Honesty
--Adventures at Lulea--Northern Sleds--Pitea--Accident at
Skelleftea--The Norrland Climate--A damp Swede--Travelling
in a Tempest--A Norrland Inn--Character of the People--Their
Houses. 177

CHAPTER XVI.

CONCLUSION OF THE ARCTIC TRIP.

Warmth and Daylight--Swedish Linen--The Northern Women--Progress
Southward--Quarrel with a Postillion--A Model Village--Rough
Roads--Scarcity of Snow--Arrival at Stockholm--Remarks on Arctic
Travel--Scale of Temperature--Record of Cold. 187

CHAPTER XVII.

LIFE IN STOCKHOLM.

Stockholm--Its Position and Appearance--The Streets and Houses--
Manner of Living--Swedish Diet--Stockholm in Spring--Swedish
Gymnastics--A Grotesque Spectacle--Results of Gymnastics--Ling's
System--The Swedish Language--Character of the Prose and Poetry--
Songs--Life in Stockholm. 197

CHAPTER XVIII.

MANNERS AND MORALS OF STOCKHOLM.

Hospitality of the Swedes--Northern Frenchmen--Stockholm Manners
--Dress--Conventionalism--Taking off the Hat--Courtesy of the
Swedish--An Anecdote--King Oscar--The Royal Family--Tendency to
Detraction--The King's Illness--Morals of Stockholm--Illegitimate
Births--Sham Morality--Causes of Immorality--Drunkenness--An
Incident.