ation--Little Pehr--The female Postillion
--The Lasare in Dalecarlia--View of Mora Valley. 407

CHAPTER XXXVI.

LAST DAYS IN THE NORTH.

Mora Scenery--"The Parsonage of Mora"--The Magister--Peasants
from Upper Elfdal--Scenery of the Siljan--Hymns on Board--Opinions
of the Lasare--Their Increase--Conversation with the Peasants--
Leksand--The Domprost Hvasser--Walk in the Garden--Dalecarlian
Songs--Rainy Travel--Fahlun--Journey to Upsala--The Cholera--The
Mound of Odin--_Skal_ to the Gods--The End of Summer in Stockholm
--Farewell to the North. 425

NORTHERN TRAVEL, ETC.

CHAPTER I.

A WINTER VOYAGE ON THE BALTIC.

We went on board the little iron Swedish propeller, _Carl Johan_, at
Lubeck, on the morning of December 1, A.D. 1856, having previously taken
our passage for Stockholm. What was our dismay, after climbing over
hills of freight on deck, and creeping down a narrow companion-way, to
find the cabin stowed full of bales of wool and barrels of butter. There
was a little pantry adjoining it, with a friendly stewardess therein,
who, in answer to my inquiries, assured us that we would probably be
placed in a _hut_. After further search, I found the captain, who was
superintending the loading of more freight, and who also stated that he
would put us into a hut. "Let me see the hut, then," I demanded, and we
were a little relieved when we found it to be a state-room, containing
two of the narrowest of bunks. There was another hut opposite, occupied
by two more passengers, all that the steamer could carry and all we
had, except a short deck-passenger, who disappeared at the commencement
of the voyage, and was not seen again until its close.

The day was clear and cold, the low hills around Lubeck were covered
with snow, and the Trave was already frozen over. We left at noon,
slowly breaking our way down the narrow and winding river, which
gradually widened and became clearer of ice as we approached the Baltic.
When we reached Travemunde it was snowing fast, and a murky chaos beyond
the sandy bar concealed the Baltic. The town is a long row of houses
fronting the water. There were few inhabitants to be seen, for the
bathing guests had long since flown, and all watering places have a
funereal air after the season is over. Our fellow-passenger, a jovial
Pole, insisted on going ashore to drink a last glass of Bavarian beer
before leaving