ave everything ready by six
o'clock the next morning, and our captain, who was to go on the same
evening, took notices of our wants, to be served at the two intervening
post-stations on the road. We then visited the custom-house, a cabin
about ten feet square, and asked to have our luggage examined. "No,"
answered the official, "we have no authority to examine anything; you
must wait until we send to Stockholm." This was at least a new experience.
We were greatly vexed and annoyed, but at length, by dint of explanations
and entreaties, prevailed upon the man to attempt an examination. Our
trunks were brought ashore, and if ever a man did his duty conscientiously,
it was this same Swedish official. Every article was taken out and
separately inspected, with an honest patience which I could not but
admire. Nothing was found contraband, however; we had the pleasure of
repacking, and were then pulled back to the _Carl Johan_ in a profuse
sweat, despite the intense cold.

CHAPTER II.

STOCKHOLM.--PREPARATIONS FOR THE NORTH.

On the following morning we arose at five, went ashore in the darkness,
and after waiting an hour, succeeded in getting our teams together. The
horses were small, but spirited, the sleds rudely put together, but
strong, and not uncomfortable, and the drivers, peasants of the
neighborhood, patient, and good-humoured. Climbing the steep bank, we
were out of the village in two minutes, crossed an open common, and
entered the forests of fir and pine. The sleighing was superb, and our
little nags carried us merrily along, at the usual travelling rate of
one Swedish mile (nearly seven English) per hour. Enveloped from head to
foot in our fur robes, we did not feel the sharp air, and in comparing
our sensations, decided that the temperature was about 20 deg.. What was our
surprise, on reaching the post-station, at learning that it was actually
2 deg. below zero!

Slowly, almost imperceptibly, the darkness decreased, but the morning
was cloudy, and there was little appearance of daybreak before nine
o'clock. In the early twilight we were startled by the appearance of a
ball of meteoric fire, nearly as large as the moon, and of a soft white
lustre, which moved in a horizontal line from east to west, and
disappeared without a sound. I was charmed by the forest scenery through
which we passed. The pine, spruce, and fir trees, of the greatest
variety of form, were completely coated with frozen snow, and s