tood as
immovable as forests of bronze incrusted with silver. The delicate twigs
of the weeping birch resembled sprays of crystal, of a thousand airy and
exquisite patterns. There was no wind, except in the open glades between
the woods, where the frozen lakes spread out like meadow intervals. As
we approached the first station there were signs of cultivation--fields
inclosed with stake fences, low red houses, low barns, and scanty
patches of garden land. We occasionally met peasants with their
sleds--hardy, red-faced fellows, and women solid enough to outweigh
their bulk in pig-iron.

The post-station was a cottage in the little hamlet of Berga. We drove
into the yard, and while sleds and horses were being changed, partook of
some boiled milk and tough rye-bread, the only things to be had, but
both good of their kind. The travellers' room was carpeted and
comfortable, and the people seemed poor only because of their few wants.
Our new sleds were worse than the former, and so were our horses, but we
came to the second station in time, and found we must make still another
arrangement. The luggage was sent ahead on a large sled, while each pair
of us, seated in a one horse cutter, followed after it, driving
ourselves. Swedish horses are stopped by a whistle, and encouraged by a
smacking of the lips, which I found impossible to learn at once, and
they considerately gave us no whips. We had now a broad, beaten road,
and the many teams we met and passed gave evidence of our approach to
Stockholm. The country, too, gently undulating all the way, was more
thickly settled, and appeared to be under tolerable cultivation.

About one in the afternoon, we climbed a rising slope, and from its brow
looked down upon Stockholm. The sky was dark-gray and lowering; the
hills were covered with snow, and the roofs of the city resembled a
multitude of tents, out of which rose half a dozen dark spires. On
either side were arms of the Malar Lake--white, frozen plains. Snow was
already in the air, and presently we looked through a screen of heavy
flakes on the dark, weird, wintry picture. The impression was perfect of
its kind, and I shall not soon forget it.

We had passed through the southern suburb, and were descending to the
lake, when one of our shafts snapped off. Resigning the cutter to the
charge of a stout maiden, who acted as postillion, Braisted and I
climbed upon the luggage, and in this wise, shaggy with snowy fur,
passed throu