where the wind had
blown, the trees were clear, and the track filled up. At half-past
eleven we saw the light of the sun on the tops of the hills, and at noon
about half his disc was visible. The cold was intense; my hands became
so stiff and benumbed that I had great difficulty in preventing them
from freezing, and my companion's feet almost lost all feeling. It was
well for us that we were frequently obliged to walk, to aid the horse.
The country was a wilderness of mournful and dismal scenery--low hills
and woods, stripped bare of snow, the dark firs hung with black,
crape-like moss, alternating with morasses. Our Finnish postilions were
pleasant, cheerful fellows, who insisted on our riding when there was
the least prospect of a road. Near a solitary hut (the only one on the
road) we met a man driving a reindeer. After this we lost all signs of
our way, except the almost obliterated track of his pulk. The snow was
deeper than ever, and our horses were ready to drop at every step. We
had been five hours on the road; the driver said Kihlangi was "_ux
verst_" distant, and at three, finally, we arrived. We appreciated
rather better what we had endured when we found that the temperature was
44 deg. below zero.

I at once ordered horses, and a strapping young fellow was sent off in a
bad humor to get them. We found it impossible, however, to procure milk
or anything to eat, and as the cold was not to be borne else, we were
obliged to resort to a bottle of cognac and our Haparanda bread. The old
woman sat by the fire smoking, and gave not the least attention to our
demands. I paid our postilions in Norwegian _orts_, which they laid upon
a chair and counted, with the assistance of the whole family. After the
reckoning was finished they asked me what the value of each piece was,
which gave rise to a second general computation. There was, apparently,
more than they had expected, for they both made me a formal address of
thanks, and took my hand. Seeing that I had produced a good effect I
repeated my demand for milk. The old woman refused, but the men
interfered in my behalf; she went out and presently returned with a bowl
full, which she heated for us. By this time our horses had arrived, and
one of our new postilions prepared himself for the journey, by stripping
to the loins and putting on a clean shirt. He was splendidly built, with
clean, firm muscle, a white glossy skin, and no superfluity of flesh. He
then donned a rein